British Travel Journal | Spring 2023

AT 

BRITISH TRAVEL 

JOURNAL 

SPRING 2023 | ISSUE 14 

BRITISHTRAVELJOURNAL.COM 

HOLISTIC 

HIGHS 

EXPERIENCES TO NOURISH 

THE MIND, BODY AND SOUL 

O N E 

WIN 

WIN! WIN! WIN! 

A LUXURY 

SPA DAY 

O F 

H OT E L S 

F O U R 

Dog-friendly 

BREAKS 

£6.95 

+ TRAVEL NEWS | SPA BREAKS | INTERVIEWS | HOTELS | ROMANTIC STAYS

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BRITISH TRAVEL 

JOURNAL 

BritishTravelJournal.com 

Welcome 

EDITOR’S LETTER 

— 

EDITORS 

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jessica Way 

FEATURES EDITOR Samantha Rutherford 

CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Angela Harding 

HEAD OF DIGITAL Adrian Wilkinson 

CONTRIBUTORS 

Sophie Farrah, Chantal Haines, Vanessa 

Humphrey, Jane Knight, Sophie Minto, 

Adrian Mourby, Karyn Noble, Natalie Paris 

COVER PHOTO 

— 

Paddleboarding on Derwentwater in 

the Lake District National Park 

Published by 

CONTISTA MEDIA 

Unit 6, Basepoint, Andersons Road, 

Southampton, SO14 5FE 

01489 660680 

contistamedia.co.uk 

Blossom by blossom the spring begins, prompting an 

array of floral masterclasses (page 78), and other 

wonderful courses, including cooking, surfing and 

beekeeping (page 38). Once you have learned a 

new skill, why not celebrate with a wellness break from our 

restorative assortment of Holistic Highs (page 52) or hide 

away in a romantic bolthole for two (page 90). 

If you’re ready for a pawsome adventure with your 

beloved four-legged friend, you’ll be pleased to discover that 

almost all the hotels and self-catering properties featured in 

our Travel News (page 9) are either entirely dog-friendly or 

have designated bedrooms for ‘pawfect’ stays. 

One such pooch-welcoming retreat is Whatley Manor 

in the Cotswolds. Here, we meet executive chef Ricki Weston 

to learn more about his life as a rising star in modern British 

gastronomy and the hotel's Michelin-starred restaurant 

(page 44). And we even master the art of paddleboarding in 

the Lake District with a five-year-old vizsla in tow (page 64). 

If it’s a city break you’re after this season, our writers 

uncover the most à la mode attractions in beautiful Bath 

(page 28) and walk the charming maze of twisting narrow 

lanes in York (page 84). 

Jessica x 

JESSICA WAY 

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF 

– 

All rights reserved by Contista Media Ltd. Copyright is either 

owned by or licenced to Contista Media Ltd, or permitted by the 

original copyright holder. Reproduction in whole or part without 

written permission is strictly prohibited. While every care is taken 

prices and details are subject to change and Contista Media Ltd 

take no responsibility for omissions or errors. Views expressed by 

authors are not necessarily those of the publisher. 

@BritishTravelJournal 

@BritishTravelJournal 

@BTravelJournal 

BritishTravelJournal.com 3

SPRING ON TRESCO 

Time to be awakened. By the incomprehensible array of plants in 

bloom at the Abbey Garden. By an equinox yoga practise or a cool 

coastal escape. By open water swimming, Tresco-wide walking, by 

nourishing nature as it comes to life with the island’s unique rhythm. 

TRESCO.CO.UK/SPRING 

Tresco: 28 miles off the Cornish coast. Somewhere else altogether.

CONTENTS 

SPRING 2023 | ISSUE 14 

28 

64 

52 

FEATURES 

28 

AN ELEGANT CITY BREAK 

Why just wander through Bath’s UNESCO 

World Heritage streets when you can glide above 

them in a hot-air balloon! Be sure to embrace 

a revitalising dip in the UK’s only naturally hot 

thermal waters and don’t miss the city’s hottest new 

restaurant opening, Beckford Canteen 

SPRING INTO ACTION 

38 Take on an exciting new challenge while 

learning a new skill. From horse riding in the 

Highlands and cooking like Raymond Blanc with his 

mother's own recipes in Oxfordshire, to painting 

spectacular Cornish landscapes 

HOLISTIC HIGHS 

52 Find unique ways to nurture yourself with a 

wellness stay at one of the UK’s leading spa retreats, 

including rediscovering yourself in Cornwall, 

harnessing the power of nature under a full moon in 

West Sussex, and taking a Wim-Hof-style cold-water 

plunge in the Surrey Hills 

DOG-FRIENDLY ADVENTURE 

64 There's water, water everywhere in this 

stunning part of England, and oh so many ways 

to enjoy it, including paddleboarding on Lake 

Derwentwater with dog Wilbur in tow 

A WALK AROUND YORK 

84 Take a stroll inside the medieval walls of York 

as you locate some of the city’s most remarkable 

buildings and landmarks, including York Minster, 

Lendal Bridge, York Art Gallery, The Shambles and 

Yorkshire Museum 

INTERVIEWS 

44 

RICKI WESTON: TO THE MANOR BORN 

Young, ambitious, and experimental, Whatley 

Manor Hotel & Spa's Ricki Weston chats to us about 

his classical culinary techniques, eco-escapism, 

having guests in the kitchen, and the launch of his 

new tasting menu this spring 


E D I T O R 

L O V E S 

Discovered during a hotel stay at the 

recently refurbished Goodwood Hotel 

in Sussex, their new homemade Levin 

Down Goodwood Gin is perfectly 

balanced. First sipped in the hotel bar 

and later enjoyed at home following a 

visit to the Goodwood Farm Shop, it's 

handcrafted from locally grown wild 

botanicals, and distilled with mineral 

water filtered through the very chalk 

Downs that surround the estate. You 

don’t need to be a guest at the hotel 

for a taste of this authentic London Dry 

refined from the wilds of West Sussex, 

as it is also available to order online. 

Priced £40, shop.goodwood.com 

JOTTINGS 

09 

TRAVEL NEWS 

There’s lots to experience and 

look forward to this year, from wild 

Scottish cabins with Nordic saunas and 

a pond for swimming to luxurious stone 

cottages in an entirely new Cotswolds 

village, or travel pier to pier on a 

brand-new cycling route in Somerset 

WIN A SPA DAY 

36 One of four luxury spa days for 

two (with heavenly treatments and 

sumptuous food) could be yours, 

thanks to four idyllic Pride of Britain 

Hotels: Ockenden Manor; Hartwell 

House; Calcot & Spa; and The 

Headland Hotel 

BEAUTIFUL BATHROOMS 

68 In our curated selection of 

luxurious hotel bathrooms you will 

find lavish interiors, spacious walk-in 

rain showers, side-by-side bathtubs, 

twin sinks, outdoor tubs on private 

terraces, high-tech innovation and 

fabulous views 

BRITAIN IN BLOOM 

78 Which floral masterclass is right 

for you? Take your pick from crafting 

fresh spring wreaths made from 

Cumbrian foliage; growing flowers at 

Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons’ Hartley 

Botanic glasshouse; or creating 

beautiful bouquets at Scotland’s 

charming Victorian mansion, Cromlix 

78 

ROMANTIC STAYS 

90 Treat yourself to a luxury 

spring getaway; whether you prefer 

a design-led bothy, a chic cottage or 

a windswept clifftop cabin, we have 

a remote hideaway for you and your 

loved one to snuggle down in 

FOR YOUR JOURNEY 

98 Get outside and explore with 

our spring book recommendations, 

or sharpen the mind with a crossword 

challenge for the chance to win a 

stylish Ettinger passport cover and 

luggage tag 

68 

Let your feet do the talking and invest in 

a new pair of comfortable trainers this 

spring. As well as shoes, ARNE have 

launched a new range of activewear. 

Womens Active Runner, £100 

arneclo.com 

6 BritishTravelJournal.com 

IMAGE © JAKE EASTHAM

The PerfecT GifT 

PoB Hotels gift vouchers can be redeemed for an 

unforgettable stay, delightful dining, or an inspiring 

experience at any of their hotels across the British Isles. 

pobhotels.com

Against the backdrop 

of a renowned collection 

experience critically acclaimed 

exhibitions of historical and 

contemporary art, lectures, 

concerts, workshops and 

events or indulge in our 

Garden Café. 

DON’T MISS 

Alberta Whittle: Dipping below a waxing 

moon, the dance claims us for release 

Until 8 May 2023 

Painted Love: Renaissance Marriage Portraits 

26 May to 1 October 2023 

Michael Simpson: Drawing towards Painting 

6 May to 17 September 2023 

Lucie Rie: The Adventure of Pottery 

14 July 2023 George to 7 Shaw January 2024 

A Corner of a Foreign Field 

‘Without Hands’ The Art of Sarah Biffin 

Édouard Vuillard 

29 September 2023 to 14 January 2024 

The Poetry of the Everyday 

Gwen John: 

Lauren 

Art 

Child 

and Life in London and Paris 

27 October The 2023 Art of to Illustration 14 April 2024 

2019 HIGHLIGHTS 

Against Rembrandt 

the backdrop of a renowned collection 

experience A Life critically in Print acclaimed exhibitions 

of historical Henri and Matisse contemporary art, lectures, 

concerts, Master workshops of Line and events or indulge in 

our Garden Café 

Great Great Pulteney Pulteney Street, Street, Bath Bath BA2 BA2 4DB 4DB 

www.holburne.org 

STYLISH RETREATS IN THE UK’S HOTTEST LOCATIONS 

From cosying up fireside in a country cottage, to stargazing from a 

dreamy hot tub at your clifftop hideaway, escape the everyday and 

seek the magic of a staycation with Boutique Retreats. With over 

260 luxury abodes to choose from, uncover our curated collection 

of luxury retreats, set in unique locations across the UK. 

boutique-retreats.co.uk 

+44 (0)1872 553 491 

enquiries@boutique-retreats.co.uk

Spring 

TRAVEL NEWS 

Hip hotels, budget beach boltholes and a stunning treehouse for 10 are 

among our latest batch of hot new properties to tempt you this spring 

Text by Jane Knight 

HOTEL NEWS 

GLAMPING 

SELF-CATERING 

ATTRACTIONS 

from page 10 from page 14 

from page 16 from page 20 

Pictured above: The Braken Hide Hotel. Inset, left to right: Boys Hall Hotel; Forest Holidays, Garwnant; West Barsham Estate; Wild Drovers Way

Hotel News 

LONDON 

Hux Hotel, Kensington 

When they say they didn’t hold back with 

their new suite, the folk at the hip and 

happening Hux Hotel next to Kensington 

Palace Gardens weren’t kidding. With 

vibrant walls and lavish furnishings, The 

Huxy One features work by Icelandic artist 

Kristjana S Williams. Stuffed animals 

abound: a peacock stands in the blue 

sitting room, a swan is stalled in flight in the 

swish bathroom, and a parrot occupies a 

dressing-room perch. We’ll leave it to you to 

decide if it’s the last word in extravagance 

or an animal-lover’s nightmare. ◆ 

From £1,050 a night, huxhotel.com 

MARGATE 

No 42 by Guesthouse 

The Telegraph calls Tracey Emin’s hometown a ‘beacon of 

Bohemia’ and Tatler says its art scene rival’s Ibiza’s. From June, you 

can take in the wonders of Margate while based at this 21-room 

hotel, which has record players in the rooms along with coffeemakers 

in mini beach huts, a rooftop bar and a beachfront cafe. ◆ 

Rooms from £155, guesthousehotels.co.uk 

SCOTLAND 

Tongue Hotel 

The views are already pretty good from this former sporting lodge, 

which overlooks the Kyle of Tongue, on the scenic North Coast 

500 route. Now it’s equally enticing within, following a facelift 

from new owner Highland Coast Hotels, which added bursts of 

colour and fresh furnishings to wood panelling and antiques. ◆ 

Rooms from £149, with breakfast, tonguehotel.co.uk 

10 BritishTravelJournal.com

RUTLAND 

Barnsdale Lodge 

Following its success with Berkshire’s Retreat at Elcot Park, The 

Signet Collection is introducing the same formula to rural Rutland. 

With sublime views of Rutland Water, Barnsdale Lodge is surrounded 

by walking trails, and comes with an on-site beauty salon. 

Rooms from £120, with breakfast, barnsdalerutland.com 

KENT 

Boys Hall 

Sometimes restaurants with rooms are more 

about the food than the furnishings. Not so 

at this Jacobean manor house, with its seven 

super-smart bedrooms – think rolltop baths, 

four posters and window seats. The enormous, 

beamed restaurant makes a great backdrop, 

too, for chef Shane Pearson’s gourmet version 

of home-cooked favourites. Just a 35-minute 

train ride from London, Boys Hall is the passion 

project of husband-and-wife team Bradley and 

Kristie Lomas. There’s more to come, with new 

rooms and cabins due to open later this year, 

along with treatment rooms and an outdoor 

pizza oven plus garden-room bar. ◆ 

Rooms from £160, with breakfast, 

boys-hall.com 

Editor loves 

WALES 

The Caban, Pendine Sands 

Looking for a budget seaside break? Look no further 

than Carmarthen Bay, where this 14-room hotel 

overlooks seven miles of sand. Pared back, modern 

rooms cost from just £80. Better still, the hotel is 

next door to the new Museum of Land Speed, which 

replaces the Museum of Speed. The attraction opens 

on 31 March, the same day as The Caban. ◆ 

cabanpentywyn.cymru 


ALDEBURGH-ON-SEA 

The Suffolk 

Sup and sleep in Suffolk-sur-sea, aka Aldeburgh, where this former 

inn has just opened six beautifully designed bedrooms to go with 

its seafront restaurant. Should you get peckish after the excellent 

seafood at dinner, you can raid the first-floor pantry. 

Rooms from £180, the-suffolk.co.uk 

KENT 

Updown Farmhouse 

It’s all very rustic at this little restaurant with 

rooms in 7.5 acres of rolling Kent countryside. 

Everything is cooked in the outdoor kitchen, 

with its baker’s oven built into the stable wall 

and wood-fired grill; guests eat in a covered 

outdoor space. The short menu might be 

Italian leaning but it’s strong on local produce. 

Typical dishes include tagliolini with chilli and 

crab and braised short rib with pickled walnut. 

Within the 17th-century farmhouse are five 

block-coloured rooms, while another is set 

within the gardener’s cottage outside. ◆ 

Rooms cost from £250, with breakfast, 

updownfarmhouse.com 

SCOTLAND 

Bracken Hide Hotel, Skye 

Wilderness meets hotel at this Scottish bolthole, 

which opens mid April. Rooms are in 27 cabins 

spread over the 53-acre site, which is also home to a 

pair of Nordic saunas and a pond for wild swimming. 

A whisky bar, a games room and a restaurant are 

in the main building. ◆ 

From £150 a night, brackenhide.co.uk 


CHANNEL ISLANDS

Glamping 

BRECON BEACONS 

Forest Holidays, Garwnant 

Just in time for spring, Forest Holidays has 

opened in Wales' beautiful Brecon Beacons 

National Park, amid 400 acres of woodland. Its 

40 timber cabins with large decks are designed 

to let guests immerse themselves in nature. 

Head out on two wheels to explore forest 

trails, then build dens, and learn about the 

big outdoors on one of the new Forest Ranger 

experiences. Return to your private hot tub and 

indulge in a little star spotting: the park is a 

Dark Sky Reserve. ◆ 

Cabins sleep two to 10 guests and cost from 

£1,510 to £2,935 for four nights in April, 

forestholidays.co.uk 

IMAGE © PAUL BOX 

SOMERSET 

The Glastonbury Pop Up Hotel 

If you want to glamp at Glastonbury, book now to bag a yurt, a 

gypsy caravan or an emperor tent. Classic rooms have already sold 

out; prices are now from £3,399 for two. It’s not cheap, but you do 

get proper beds, a restaurant, spa and swimming pool access, all a 

ten-minute walk from gate D. ◆ 

thepopuphotel.com 

CUMBRIA 

Icelandic Turf House 

Channel your inner Viking at a quirky turf house near Kirkby 

Stephen. Beneath the grass roof you’ll find a bed lined with faux 

fur, a table for feasting, Viking-style lamps, and horn glasses to 

drink from. Set off from the door for walks in the fells, then return 

to cook on the BBQ or in the kitchen hut. ◆ 

From £75 a night for two, canopyandstars.co.uk 


HEREFORDSHIRE 

The Journeyman Treehouse 

Treehouses don’t come much better than this. Sleeping 10, the 

woodland retreat has twin baths on the veranda, a pool table and 

a movie projector, as well as a fire pit, a BBQ and a pizza oven. 

Four nights cost from £1,596, journeymanstudio.com 

DERBYSHIRE 

Field of Dreams glampsite 

at Melbourne Hall 

For a change from tents, why not stay in a 

German fire truck, an American school bus, 

or even a helicopter? The vehicles form part 

of comedian and TV star Johnny Vegas’ new 

glampsite. Moving from his original Yorkshire 

pitch in search of something bigger, the 

eponymous star of Channel 4’s Johnny Vegas: 

Carry on Glamping picked the Derbyshire 

home of Lord and Lady Kerr to host his 

Field of Dreams campsite, opening in April. 

Combine a stay with one of the boutique 

events held at the hall. ◆ 

Two nights from £330, melbournehall.com 

IMAGE © ANDREA JONES / GARDEN EXPOSURES PHOTO LIBRARY 

EAST SUSSEX 

Olive, Unplugged 

Need a digital detox? Eco-cabin company Unplugged 

expects to have 50 UK lodges by the year end, up from 

11 last August. Among them is Olive, with a picture 

window looking onto woodland, a wood stove, and 

plenty of games. Guests swap their digital devices for 

an old-school Nokia in case of emergencies. ◆ 

Three nights from £390, unplugged.rest 


Self-Catering 

CORNWALL 

Senara, Gwithian Beach 

Scandi-chic comes to the West Country at this 

beach house, a mile from Gwithian’s sandy 

dunes, with views over St Ives Bay. Wall-to-wall 

white décor lies within the barn-like living areas 

with floor-to-ceiling windows, and six bedrooms 

in the main house. An additional bedroom is in 

the annex, perfect for grandparents wanting a 

bit of peace. On sunny days, the beach beckons, 

while back at the ranch, you can wallow in the 

pool, and hit the hot tub and sauna. The house 

also has a gym and a yoga deck. ◆ 

It’s yours from £4,995 a week, for 12 people, 

uniquehomestays.com 

NORFOLK 

West Barsham Estate 

The bevy of barns that makes up this estate is now looking super 

stylish after a colourful makeover by interior designer Flora Soames. 

With on-site beer tasting and a monthly street-food event, the barns 

make a great base for exploring North Norfolk’s magical coastline. ◆ 

Sleeping from four to 14, they cost from £550–£2,650 for a 

three-night stay, barshambarns.co.uk 

DEVON 

The Mole Resort 

Forget mole holes: these lodges in Devon near the River Mole are 

the height of luxury. Sleeping up to eight people, with a balcony 

deck, a hot tub and a fully equipped kitchen, the lodges will be 

joined in the summer by a refurbished hotel. On-site activities 

include swimming, tennis, pickleball and trout fishing. ◆ 

Three nights for eight from £1,752, themoleresort.co.uk 


WORCESTERSHIRE 

Lion Lodges at West Midland Safari Park 

Book now to stay within a whisker of the big cats in four lodges 

opening here in July. The lions are on show through the floor-to-ceiling 

windows in the living area and from the two bedrooms. 

From £790 for two, including breakfast, dinner, and two days’ park 

admission, safari-lodges.co.uk 

THE COTSWOLDS 

Daylesford Village 

Celebrating a special event? You can now take 

over a whole Cotswolds village. The 15 stone 

cottages at Daylesford village, on a 2,500- 

acre estate, were recently launched by Carole 

Bamford. Her farm shop is just down the road, 

offering cookery classes, floristry workshops, 

winetastings and the use of the Bamford 

Wellness Spa. And if you don’t want to cook, it’s 

just a short walk to the two pubs in Bamford’s 

empire: The Fox at Oddington and The Wild 

Rabbit. It's price on application, which means 

it’s expensive, but you can rent the cottages 

individually from £375 a night for two. ◆ 

daylesford.com 

ANGLESEY 

Driftwood Lodge 

The beach at Rhosneigr is a beauty, and this 

self-catering annex attached to a six-room 

guesthouse is just a short walk away. Enjoy your 

own privacy, plus a fully fitted kitchenette and 

room for three, then set off to explore the 120- 

mile island coastland, with plenty of rural trails. ◆ 

A night for three is from £190, 

rhosneigr.co.uk 


Self-Catering 

HAMPSHIRE 

The Bugle, Southampton 

When you hire this Grade-II-listed townhouse 

on Bugle Street overlooking Southampton’s 

Royal Pier, you can customise it to any event, 

picking your own decorations and caterer. 

Whether you want a cocktail party or a seated 

wedding for 104 guests, an events coordinator 

helps you iron out any details. In strippedback 

style, it opened in January and is the first 

of three properties from The Wonder House 

Group. The 5-storey house comes with a fully 

stocked basement bar and eight rooms; it is 

also available for exclusive-use homestays for 

16 people. ◆ 

Two nights costs from £2,750, or venue hire is 

from £2,500, thebugle.house 

NORTH CORNWALL 

Tresithney 

For those looking for a coastal retreat for the family, this five-bedroom 

dog-friendly property situated in the heart of Rock village is in 

walking distance of the beach and oozes luxury. It has a games 

room with pool, ping pong and board games. It also comes with its 

own cinema room and heated swimming pool with large terrace. ◆ 

From £4,500 for seven nights, shorestays.co.uk 

NORTH PENNINES 

Blackton Grange 

You’d never know this place was a former youth hostel. Forget 

dormitories and cheap furnishings: the exclusive-hire house now 

has five en-suite bedrooms, plus its own cinema room, a swish 

cocktail lounge, and a hot tub overlooking the rolling hills. Not far 

from Barnard Castle, it sleeps up to 17 people. ◆ 

From £2,300 for two nights, blacktongrange.co.uk 


WEST SUSSEX 

Terrarium, Chichester 

If you fancy staying in a house that featured on the TV show 

Grand Designs, this might be the place, with its glass and 

timber front, spiral staircase and interiors that are the epitome 

of stripped-back elegance. 

A week for 10 from £6,995, uniquehomestays.com 

WILTSHIRE 

Kin House 

An exclusive-hire venue with its own barbers 

for a spot of pre-dinner grooming? Yes, and 

a dressing room kitted out with hair-washing 

sinks, hairdryers and tongs. They’ve done 

everything possible to make this Georgian 

manor the ultimate in private hire, whether you 

want to hold a big birthday, a wellness retreat or 

a wedding. A team of inhouse chefs can please 

the most particular of palates, while in the bar 

the staff love to whip up their signature burnt 

orange negronis. As for the 12 bedrooms, they 

have rolltop baths and minibars. ◆ 

From £12,500 for 24-hour hire, 

kinhouse.co.uk 

CHESHIRE 

Edgar House 

Right by Chester’s city walls, this Regency 

property, that in a previous incarnation operated 

as a small hotel, is now available for private hire. 

It still has the look of an upmarket boutique hotel, 

with a cinema, a games room, and space for 16 

guests, but there’s also a large open-plan 

kitchen you can use. ◆ 

Three nights from £3,271, daisyjoy.co.uk 


Attractions 

LONDON 

BBC Earth Experience 

See the spectacular light show created by fireflies in 

North America, watch snub-nosed monkeys huddling 

together to stay warm in Asia, and be amazed by 

hungry hamsters in Europe fighting to keep their 

food. It’s all part of the 360-degree audiovisual 

journey at BBC Earth Experience, in which you can 

experience remarkable landscapes and watch the 

world’s most mesmerising creatures – without having 

to fly anywhere. Narrated by David Attenborough, 

and projected on multiple multi-angle screens, the 

immersive show follows the BBV TV programme 

Seven Worlds One Planet. ◆ 

It opens in Earl’s Court on 30 March. Tickets 

cost £28.50 for adults, £22 for children, 

bbcearthexperience.com 

MANCHESTER 

Manchester Museum 

Reopened after a £15 million facelift, this museum aims to tell the city’s 

diverse story, and includes a South Asia gallery and a Chinese culture 

gallery. A new exhibition hall will hold ambitious shows, opening with 

the 'Golden Mummies of Egypt'. Also new is a dinosaur display, and the 

Belonging Gallery, reflecting on what it means to belong. ◆ 

museum.manchester.ac.uk 

OXFORDSHIRE 

The Lost Garden at Blenheim Palace 

While adults marvel at Sir Winston Churchill’s birthplace, the kids will 

love the new outdoor play area in the garden. With interactive water 

features, play trails and winding walkways on the ground, it also has 

aerial features, including rope bridges, raised walkways and triple 

racing zip lines, with views over the Capability Brown parkland. ◆ 

blenheimpalace.com 


6339 Swan Season ad British Travel Journal RiP.indd 1 21/02/2023 15:01 

6339 Swan Season ad British Travel Journal RiP.indd 1 21/02/2023 1

Attractions 

WEST SUSSEX 

The Petworth Park Antiques 

& Fine Art Fair 

Everything from a pair of silver travelling candlesticks 

to a £52,000 Harold Harvey oil painting 

will be on show at Petworth’s antique fair in May. 

More than 60 exhibitors will gather to sell a 

variety of ceramics, sculptures, jewellery, artwork 

and furniture. One newcomer to this year’s fair 

is W. Shanshan, whose pottery includes a Han 

dynasty Sichuan terracotta dancer (£12,500). 

The fair, normally held at the beginning of May, 

has been pushed back until 19–21 May as a result 

of King Charles’ coronation. Tickets cost £10 but 

entry is free to National Trust members. ◆ 

petworthparkfair.com 

IMAGE © ALED LLYWELYN 

Cairn Distillery 

It’s been worth the wait – more than a century has passed since a 

distillery was built in Scotland’s Cairngorms National Park. Now, 

this cutting-edge modern building (with sedum roof to encourage 

insect life) blends Gordon & MacPhail’s Scotch in a spectacular 

spot on the banks of the River Spey. ◆ 

thecairndistillery.com 

22 BritishTravelJournal.com 

THE CAIRNGORMS 

WALES 

The Wild Drovers’ Way 

Follow the winding roads and take in the foothills of the 

Cambrian Mountains and swathes of sand on the coast on this 

180-mile circular route once used by drovers. A new online guide 

details where to stay and eat, as well as places to 

recharge electric cars or to hire e-bikes. ◆ 

discovercarmarthenshire.com

SOMERSET 

IMAGE © VISITSOMERSET.CO.UK 

Pier to Pier Way 

Opening at Easter, this new 13-mile cycling route will link the 

Weston-super-Mare and Clevedon piers. Be sure to enjoy fish ‘n’ 

chips, rides and arcade games at the former, and to appreciate 

‘the most beautiful pier in England’ according to poet John 

Betjeman, at the latter. somerset.gov.uk 

LONDON 

Bacchanalia Restaurant 

For a side serving of theatre with your food, you 

can’t go wrong here. One of London’s hottest 

new restaurants, Bacchanalia in Mayfair was 

curated by flamboyant interior architect Martin 

Brudnizki and it’s breathtaking from the moment 

you walk through the gilded door. Damien Hirst's 

equine statues gallop across a ceiling painted 

with scenes from classical myths. A floor-toceiling 

mural on the back wall depicts the 

Last Supper, albeit one where iPhones and the 

Golden Gate Bridge existed. The Greek- and 

Italian-inspired food, served by toga-clad staff, 

is part of the show – it’s finished at the tables for 

that extra wow factor. ◆ 

bacchanalia.co.uk 

SUSSEX 

IMAGE © SIMON DACK / JIM HOLDEN 

Royal Pavilion 

While the final preparations are made for King 

Charles III’s coronation in May, Brighton’s Royal 

Pavilion is celebrating a more lavish affair. George 

IV’s coronation in 1821 was extravagant, colourful 

and contentious: the Queen Consort was refused 

entry to the ceremony and remained uncrowned. 

The exhibition, dubbed 'A Right Royal Spectacle', is 

on show from 11 March to 10 September. ◆ 

brightonmuseums.org.uk 


A Right Royal 

Spectacle: 

The Coronation 

of George IV 

11 Mar – 10 Sep 2023 

Open daily 

Admission payable 

Members free 

brightonmuseums.org.uk 

A display 

revealing tales 

of outrageous 

expense, vanity 

and loss. 

Come and buy the very finest 

art and antiques at our ninth 

annual event of distinction 

THE PETWORTH PARK 

ANTIQUES & FINE ART FAIR 

THE MARQUEE 

PETWORTH PARK 

PETWORTH 

W. SUSSEX GU28 0QY 

19-21 MAY 2023 

Friday 11.00 - 18.00 

Saturday 10.30 - 18.00 

Sunday 10.30 - 17.00 

To request a complimentary 

invitation for three please 

email BTJ@adfl.co.uk 

01797 252030 

For updates please visit 

www.petworthparkfair.com 

supported by 

THE 

ANTIQUES 

DEALERS 

FAIR 

LIMITED

SPECIAL FEATURE 

Frameless 

THE UK’S FIRST PERMANENT LARGE SCALE DIGITAL 

IMMERSIVE ART EXPERIENCE 

Art with no boundaries. Step inside a world of light, colour and sound 

Frameless elevates the art 

experience to a level never 

experienced before. Unique 

interpretations of masterpieces 

from artists including Canaletto, 

Cézanne, Dalí, Kandinsky, Klimt, 

Monet, Rembrandt and Van Gogh are 

displayed using the very latest interactive 

projection technology in a series of four 

spectacular galleries, each dedicated to 

a different theme. Be uplifted by the art 

surrounding you in the 30,000 square 

feet space as it connects you with the 

artist’s imagination. Located just a 

few short steps from Marble Arch, this 

immersive, multi-dimensional experience 

is the biggest of its kind in the UK set 

to become a major new landmark and 

cultural destination for visitors in the 

capital. Be sure to have your camera 

ready – Frameless is a place where art 

breaks free from the frame. ◆ 

FIND OUT MORE 

Frameless is open 7 days a week 

from 10am. Adult tickets start at 

£25; child tickets start at £15 and 

children under 5 years go for free. 

For more information on the 

experience and to buy tickets 

visit www.frameless.com 

Frameless, 6 Marble Arch, London, 

W1H 7AP 


Spotlight on... 

ST. JAMES'S 

Originally a gentlemen’s club for the English aristocracy, today 

St. James’s Hotel & Club Mayfair is a perfect London 

sanctuary for the modern traveller 

Text by Jessica Way 

It's easy to become wrapped up in the hottest hotel 

openings and exciting refurbishments, often overlooking 

the quieter, more unassuming establishments – ones 

that have been hosting guests for centuries, not 

merely decades – and yet, just like their newer rivals, are 

continually evolving without complacency. 

One such five-star hideaway is St. James’s Hotel & Club 

in Mayfair – with such a long tradition of impeccable service, 

it's no wonder Sir Winston Churchill, Henry James and Ian 

Fleming have been previous members. Today’s high-profile 

guests are no less impressive (Elle Macpherson, Sir Sean 

Connery and Sir Elton John, to name but a few), perhaps 

attracted by the privacy of this historic boutique club, subtly 

located in a peaceful hidden cul-de-sac, protected from 

London’s usual hustle and bustle. 

As a guest of St. James’s, you get to experience this 

prestigious area of London while living like a local – the 

remarkable location is a short walk to a plethora of 

attractions; Buckingham Palace, the exclusive stores 

of Jermyn Street, Burlington Arcade, Bond Street and 

the Royal Academy of Arts. The West End's theatres 

and nightlife are also close by... and with no chauffeur 

required, you can simply potter about, enjoying the locale 

and feeling carefree and part of the sociable community. 


‘ 

As a guest of St. James’s, you get to experience this prestigious area of London 

while living like a local... feeling carefree and part of the sociable community 

’ 

The Victorian townhouse itself is unmistakable, with a 

striking red-and-white façade, retaining all its charm and 

heritage. Red carpeted stone steps lead the way inside 

the foyer, where there is an understated style and classical 

elegance, wood-panelled walls and polished natural 

stone. To the right is the reception where one of the hotel’s 

impressive 20th-century paintings, from the Rosenstein 

Collection, demands attention. Throughout the hotel, 

there are more than 400 paintings, pictures and sculptures 

from this impressive private art collection. 

There are 60 exquisitely designed bedrooms with 

handcrafted Murano glass chandeliers and sumptuous silk 

wallpapers – the vast Terrace Suite has an open fireplace 

and spacious roof terrace, or for complete exclusivity, 

the St James and Westminster Suites (which, connected, 

become The Penthouse) come complete with your own 

private lift and panoramic views over London. De-stress 

with a 90-minute body treatment or other in-room spa and 

beauty service. 

Art Deco is the theme at the Seven Park Place 

restaurant with William Drabble, known as Billy, at the 

helm. Fresh lobster and Lune Valley lamb are just some of 

the delights to look forward to, thanks to Billy’s own unique 

French-inspired menu, which helped gain him one Michelin 

star just a year after opening. 

If casual dining is more your style, take a bite from the 

all-day dining menu at 1857 The Bar, offering a delectable 

choice of classics, from a St James Beef Burger to Gnocchi with 

Lobster. It is also here, at London’s fashionable wine bar for 

oenophiles, where you can sample the oldest wine to be sold 

by the glass in the UK, the Graham’s 1882 Ne Oublie port. 

Jessica Way was a guest of St. James’s Hotel & Club 

Mayfair, Double rooms from £375, stjameshotelandclub.com 


AN 

ELEGANT 

city BREAK

Bath’s gracious streets and golden-stone buildings are 

world renowned, but the best way of breathing in this UNESCO 

heritage city’s beauty is by soaring above it all in a hot-air balloon... 

Text by Natalie Paris 

It’s springtime in Royal Victoria Park and 

there is a strange puffing sound overhead. 

For those unfamiliar with Bath, the historic 

park spreads like a picnic blanket beneath 

the city’s famous Royal Crescent. When 

daffodils raise their heads and the magnolias 

are studded with fresh buds, the park lawns 

are used to launch the year’s first hot-air 

balloons. The magnificent balloons fire 

up – weather permitting – with an emphatic 

puffing noise and rise majestically above 

the trees for an aerial view of the Crescent’s 

sweep of perfectly aligned townhouses. 

A hot-air balloon flight is a great way to 

fully appreciate this graceful street and the 

Georgian architecture within this UNESCO 

World Heritage city. From April 2023 

onwards, the Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa, 

which sits at the very centre of the Crescent, 

will launch exclusive flights for two in its own 

balloon. Guests who take to the skies can 

enjoy an afternoon tea afterwards, picking 

over an assortment of delicate sandwiches, 

buns and pastries while sipping Champagne 

in the hotel gardens. 

The arrival of sunshine and balloon flights 

makes spring an appealing time to visit 

Bath, and the Royal Crescent Hotel is the 

city’s premier address. There is nothing quite 

like stepping out of its front door onto the 

Crescent, especially if you can stay in a fourposter 

bed in one of the hotel’s newly 


efurbished suites. Their grand 

windows look onto the Crescent’s 

curve of butter-stone buildings and 

the park beyond. 

Bath’s historic streets have played 

a winning supporting role in a 

number of films, including last year’s 

Persuasion, a Netflix remake of 

Jane Austen’s classic love story. The 

smash television drama Bridgerton 

was filmed here too. 

The streets are lined with refined 

buildings. A short walk from the 

Crescent are The Assembly Rooms, 

where Georgian balls used to attract 

up to 1,000 guests. Sadly, these 

rooms, which were once a hub for 

high society, are currently closed 

for refurbishment. The chandeliers 

would have sparkled in the 

candlelight on a winter’s evening, 

which was when the Georgian social 

season ran. 

A central hall leads to a card 

room, once used for gambling, 

and to the tea room, where weary 

dancers and sharp-eyed socialites 

would have descended to enjoy 

sweetmeats, jellies, wine, biscuits 

and tea. 

Kick-start an indulgent weekend 

in Bath with a glass of Buck's Fizz 

and brunch in the grand Pump 

IMAGE © DAKOTA JOHNSON AS ANNE ELLIOT IN PERSUASION. CR. NICK WALL/NETFLIX / ANNA STOWE 

PREVIOUS PAGE, LEFT 

TO RIGHT: PULTENEY 

BRIDGE; THE ROYAL 

CRESCENT HOTEL'S HOT- 

AIR BALLOON RIDES OVER 

THE HOTEL; THE ROYAL 

CRESCENT HOTEL'S NEW 

BEDROOM SUITE. THIS 

PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM 

LEFT: THE GREAT BATH 

AT ROMAN BATHS WITH 

VIEWS OF BATH ABBEY; 

DAKOTA JOHNSON 

AS ANNE ELLIOT IN 

PERSUASION; THE 

SWEEPING CURVE OF 

THE ROYAL CRESCENT 


‘ 

Bath’s streets are lined with refined buildings. A short walk from the Crescent 

are The Assembly Rooms, where Georgian balls used to attract up to 1,000 guests. 

’ 

Room, which is set beside The Abbey. The Pump Room 

building dates from 1795 and a fountain flows with natural 

spa water inside. The Abbey itself has an elaborate facade, 

with carved angels climbing ladders high above the square 

in front of it, a Victorian Gothic interior and a splendid fanvaulted 

ceiling. 

Bath’s thermal springs and mineral-rich waters are a 

big draw for visitors, and the ancient site of The Roman 

Baths is fascinating. Through its ruins and artefacts, it 

reveals how people used to bathe (and enjoy a sauna) in 

the city 2,000 years ago and it recently uncovered a new 

section that was once part of a gymnasium. 

The most exciting stop for art lovers sits in another of 

Bath’s notable buildings. The pillared Holburne Museum 

has temporary art exhibitions, a collection of fine art and 

its own Georgian pleasure gardens out the back. 

Sydney Gardens was loved by Jane Austen – who once 

lived opposite – and the park has recently been revitalised, 

with shocks of wildflowers and a playground built from 

natural materials added. The gardens are still a genteel 

place for a stroll, leading up to pretty iron bridges that 

span the Kennet and Avon canal. Spring is a good time to 

hire a narrowboat for a pootle along the canal, and Bath 

Narrowboats can organise one for you. 


‘ 

If a spring stroll sounds more agreeable, make for Prior Park, a landscaped 

garden south of the city centre. There are fine city views from the hilltop before 

the garden rolls down to a Palladian bridge, serenely reflected in a lake below. 

’ 

With so many buildings to admire, it’s no surprise that 

Bath residents have an eye for beautiful things. Shoppers 

should explore the higgledy-piggledy paved lanes to find 

sustainably made womenswear at BIBICO, or browse the 

eclectic design treasures at Found, a boutique on Pulteney 

Bridge. Berdoulat is a cafe-turned-interior-design shop with 

restored 18th-century shop counters, while Always Sunday 

has a collection of eye-catching, artisanal homeware. 

Head afterwards to Parade Gardens, where in balmy 

weather you can sit among manicured flower beds. 

Overlooking the River Avon as it spills across Pulteney 

Weir, this is yet another elegant space to relax in. If a 

spring stroll sounds more agreeable, make for Prior Park, a 

landscaped garden south of the city centre. There are fine 

city views from the hilltop before the garden rolls down to a 

Palladian bridge, serenely reflected in a lake below. 


LEFT TO RIGHT: THE NATIONAL TRUST'S PRIOR PARK 

LANDSCAPE GARDEN; BECKFORD CANTEEN. NEXT PAGE, 

LEFT TO RIGHT: WIDCOMBE CRESCENT; THE 

GAINSBOROUGH BATH SPA; THE CROSS BATH 

Dining out in Bath is always a pleasure, with 

high-quality ingredients produced in the surrounding 

countryside. There is one Michelin-star restaurant, Olive 

Tree, which serves delectable, immaculately presented 

food – for example, a plate of trout with wasabi and 

Granny Smith apple. 

The Elder restaurant has also won rave reviews. Inside, 

you will find leather banquette seating and taxidermy but 

there are also tables on the front terrace near St John’s 

church. Restaurateur Mike Robinson is known for his 

experience with game, and The Elder’s cooking brings 

creative finesse to this traditionally used meat. A starter 

of deer tartare with masala and apricot on brown butter 

IMAGE © SHUTTERSTOCK 

crumpets had flavours and textures that were spot on, 

while a main of wood pigeon came with a rich and fruity 

Moroccan pastilla of confit pigeon leg. 

Newer still is Beckford Canteen, which has taken over 

a Georgian greenhouse and is the new place to try this 

spring. Choose from plates of technically clever food, such 

as fancy sardines on toast or monkfish with curried butter. 

Bath has an abundance of cosy cocktail bars hidden 

in the basements of its townhouses. Dark Horse takes its 

mixology seriously and is a particularly seductive space. 

Or settle upon a bistro table on the cobbles outside 

Beckford Bottle Shop. This candlelit wine shop has red 

leather sofas inside, charcuterie boards and shelves 

heaving with great bottles to sample. 

When it comes to choosing a hotel, Bath has an array 

of luxurious options. The Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa is a 

memorable choice, or try the modern, yet still characterful, 

independent hotel The Queensberry, which is home to the 

Michelin-starred Olive Tree restaurant, mentioned above. 

Its bedrooms are spacious, colourful and contemporary. 


Spring is the perfect time to 

appreciate the warmth of a dip in 

the city’s steaming, thermal waters. 

For an exclusive, private soak, a 

line of stone colonnades leads from 

the Pump Room to the Cross Bath, 

where 46°C thermal springs bubble 

up to the surface. 

This small but historic open-air 

bath can be hired by groups (with 

sparkling wine available too). 

Alternatively, treat yourself 

to some pampering at the main 

Thermae Bath Spa. The modern 

complex houses pools on different 

levels, as well as a sauna and steam 

rooms. Treatments, such as Romanthemed 

scrubs, massages and 

facials, are very good but the rooftop 

pool is the star of the show. It is a 

photogenic spot and somewhere to 

contemplate Bath’s chimneys and 

church spires. Nothing beats the 

view from above this city, which has 

inspired writers and romantics for 

centuries. 

Double rooms at The Royal 

Crescent from £330 year-round 

with breakfast included. 

royalcrescent.co.uk 

For more information take a look at 

visitbath.co.uk 

‘ 

It’s invigorating; 

sliding into a 

swimming pool 

of 35°C waters, 

just as Jane 

Austen once did 

in the Roman 

Baths from a 

passage beneath 

the Pump 

Rooms 

’ 


EDITOR'S HIGHLIGHT 

— 

There are two unsurpassed reasons to stay at The 

Gainsborough Bath Spa. Firstly, location, location, 

location… you just can’t beat the hotel's locale – you’re 

smack dab in the centre of Bath, just a few minutes' 

walk from all the action; bars, restaurants, museums, 

shops, attractions and more. 

Secondly, there's its incredible spa and the 

opportunity to soak in Britain’s only naturally warm 

waters in much more privacy than across the road at 

Thermae Bath Spa. The Spa Village as its known, might 

not have breathtaking views of the city from an openair 

rooftop pool, however, the mostly beige four-storey 

glass atrium is also a pretty spectacular sight, with 

natural light giving an open-air feeling. The experience 

perfectly echoes that of the Romans; with pools and 

rooms of varying temperatures and humidities, the 

atmosphere is peaceful and the music soothing. It’s 

invigorating; sliding into a swimming pool of 35°C 

waters, just as Jane Austen once did in the Roman Baths 

from a passage beneath the Pump Rooms. 

Along with the usual massage beds and jets, 

there's an ice alcove and an elegant relaxation terrace. 

Treatments (with ELEMIS products) of a high standard 

are brilliantly delivered. Plus, there’s the opportunity 

to enjoy the natural thermal waters entirely privately, 

either by booking a treatment in a VIP Suite or by 

staying in one of the hotel's exclusive spa rooms. 

Elsewhere in the pristine 99-bedroom hotel you 

will find yet more marble and columns, and staff who 

seem to stand as proud as the grandiose pillars on the 

exterior. The Georgian masterpiece is an example of 

Bath’s stage-set-worthy architecture at its very best, 

dating back to the 1820s. The hotel was formerly built 

as a hospital and, more recently, a college. Reception is 

a scene of calm precision, with none of the usual hassle. 

Supremely efficient valet-parking is the norm. 

Well-staffed and managed, the hotel succeeds 

in maintaining an elegant and glamorous ambience 

without being overly stuffy. The decor and lighting 

is modern, but restrained, and dining at the 

Gainsborough is, like everything else, classy and 

sophisticated but managing to remain light and 

somehow informal. Afternoon tea is served in the 

intimate Canvas Room, breakfast and dinner is in the 

Socialize restaurant, which serves British cuisine, and 

where there is original artwork (by college students) 

and an impressive wine wall. Locally sourced produce 

is combined with divine flavours to produce innovative 

dishes. Pre-dinner cocktails are whipped up in the chic 

Gainsborough Bar overlooking Spa Village. 

Nightly rates at The Gainsborough Bath 

Spa start from £290 on a room-only basis. 

thegainsboroughbathspa.co.uk 


Competition time! 

WIN a SPA DAY 

Enter our competition to win one of four luxury spa days for 

two, with heavenly treatments and sumptuous food... 

In a year of recovery from all the instability of 2022, 

where self-awareness of our mental and physical 

wellness is more evident than ever before, treating 

yourself to some well-deserved 'me' time is a must. 

Let your tension melt away with a pampering 

treatment at a luxurious spa before enjoying a 

nourishing feast for two at one of the UK’s finest hotels. 

British Travel Journal has teamed up with Pride of 

Britain Hotels to offer you the opportunity to win one of 

four blissful spa days. The prize includes: treatments 

to help relax the mind, soothe the spirit and beautify 

the body; and a delightful serving of afternoon tea 

or a two-course lunch. Our fortunate winners will be 

hosted in one of four idyllic hotel settings: Ockenden 

Manor, a fine Elizabethan manor house in West Sussex; 

Hartwell House, one of England's stately homes, 

Buckinghamshire; Calcot & Spa, set within 220 acres 

of rewilded Cotswolds countryside; and The Headland 

Hotel, located in one of Cornwall's most heavenly 

locations, overlooking Fistral Bay. 


Hartwell House, Buckinghamshire 

Ockenden Manor, West Sussex 

Enjoy a full day of tranquillity and 

indulgence at Ockenden Manor 

– the impressive spa built inside a 

19th-century walled garden has 

a walk-through rainforest shower 

fed by Ockenden's own natural 

underground spring, a swim-through 

indoor and outdoor pool, and a 

Calcot, The Cotswolds 

The Headland Hotel, Cornwall 

floatation tank where saltwater 

suspends the body effortlessly for 

total muscle relaxation. Hartwell 

House is offering a spa day with 

inclusive use of the Spa Club Room 

and an 85-minute luxury spa 

treatment for two. The National 

Trust-owned Grade-I-listed 

Jacobean and Georgian house is set 

in magnificent surroundings with 

90 acres of gardens and parkland 

within the Vale of Aylesbury and on 

the edge of the Chilterns, an Area of 

Outstanding Natural Beauty. 

Revive, refresh and feel good at 

Calcot’s world-class spa, slipping into 

the soothing waters of their outdoor 

fireside hot tub. 

In Cornwall, The Headland Thermal 

Journey includes a Swedish sauna, 

a hydrotherapy pool, a Cornish-salt 

steam room, a pool with swan neck jet 

and a rainfall experience shower. ◆ 

How to enter 

ON OUR WEBSITE 

britishtraveljournal.com 

Pride of Britain Hotels is a 

collection made up of the finest 

properties, each one unique 

and characterful. With manor 

homes, castles, woodland 

retreats, elegant lodges and 

city boltholes on offer, there is 

a special experience awaiting 

every guest. Experience the best 

places to eat, stay and unwind 

within the British Isles. 

Last entries 30 May 2023. 

Prize is to be taken before 20 

December 2023. 


SPRING 


into 

ACTION! 

With the arrival of spring and 

all the energy that it brings, we 

discover some of the very best 

places across the country to 

learn a brand-new skill. 

From distilling your own 

flavoured vodka to cooking 

fresh seafood in Cornwall, are 

you ready for an exciting new 

challenge this year? 

Text by Sophie Farrah 

Learn to catch a wave 

Surf Sanctuary, Cornwall 

Directly overlooking the world-famous Fistral Beach, 

Surf Sanctuary is the on-site surf school at the fivestar 

Headland Hotel in Newquay. Set up by a small 

collective of lifelong surfers and friends that enjoy 

sharing everything that the beautiful Cornish coast has 

to offer, the school caters for families, individuals and 

small groups, and offers bespoke and group sessions in 

surfing, coasteering, stand-up-paddleboarding, snorkel 

tours, ocean confidence training and more. 

The Headland Hotel’s Surf & Stay package includes 

three nights' accommodation, spa access and a session 

of your choice at Surf Sanctuary. 

surfsanctuary.co.uk 

Also try... 

Outer Reef, Wales 

Established in 1999, this friendly surf, stand-uppaddleboarding 

and kayaking centre in Pembrokeshire 

offers classes for all ages and abilities. It also offers 

adventures such as coasteering and activity holiday 

packages, which include accommodation. 

outerreefsurfschool.com 

Saltburn Surf, North Yorkshire 

Saltburn Surf School has been teaching for nearly 

40 years; its ‘beginner's experience’ offers dry land 

instruction on the beach and a thorough safety 

briefing, followed by at least one full hour in the sea 

with a qualified and experienced instructor. Longer surf 

courses and kit hire are also available. 

saltburn-surf.co.uk 


Learn to hook a fish 

Ballynahinch Castle Hotel, Ireland 

One of Ireland's finest castle hotels, Ballynahinch 

sits within a sprawling 700-acre estate in the heart 

of Connemara. Thanks to its diverse system of 

interconnected loughs and rivers, it offers some of 

the very best of fly-fishing in the country. Guests can 

enjoy a half or a full day’s fly-fishing tutorial, where 

they’ll learn how to set up their tackle correctly, 

select a fly, cast competently and more, before being 

taken to the river to put their skills into practice, and 

perhaps even catch a salmon or sea trout. 

ballynahinch-castle.com 

Also try... 

Lime Wood, Hampshire 

Set in the heart of the stunning New Forest National 

Park, this five-star hotel is just a short cast away from 

the famous rivers Test, Itchen and Avon. 

The hotel can organise an introduction to fly-fishing 

and private tuition, as well as exclusive access to 

some of the most sought after private-estate flyfishing 

in the world. 

limewoodhotel.co.uk 

Learn to let your creative 

juices flow 

Newlyn School of Art, Cornwall 

Artists have flocked to the Cornish town of Newlyn 

since the early 1880s, drawn by the beautiful coastal 

landscapes and famous light. Today, Newlyn School 

of Art offers over 25 different courses taught by 

some of the most exciting artists working in the 

county. Founded by local artist Henry Garfit in 

2011, this dynamic art school welcomes pupils of 

all levels. Short courses range in length from a 

weekend through to one week, and focus on the likes 

of Cornish landscapes and seascapes, portraiture, 

colour, the human form, and more. Stay nearby at 

stylish townhouse hotel Chapel House, or at the 

aptly named Artist Residence. 

newlynartschool.co.uk 

Also try... 

The Fife Arms, Scotland 

This boutique hotel in the Highlands is home to over 

16,000 antiques and artworks by world-renowned 

artists, from Pablo Picasso to Lucian Freud. Here, 

guests can explore their own artistic abilities too, 

thanks to a choice of ‘creative pursuits’, which 

include wild sketching, landscape photography, 

creative writing, tartan design and more. 

thefifearms.com 

Glebe House, South Devon 

At this boutique guesthouse, restaurant and 15-acre 

smallholding in the heart of East Devon, guests 

can head out on the open sea on a private guided 

mackerel-fishing trip with seasoned skipper Paul. 

Upon return, a three-course seafood supper is served 

on the beach. 

glebehousedevon.co.uk 


Learn to be at one 

with nature 

The Newt, Somerset 

With acres of stunning gardens, 

woodland, farmland and cyder 

orchards to explore, this glorious 

country estate and elegant hotel is a 

nature lover’s paradise. Inspired by the 

land, history and culture of Somerset, 

The Newt runs a seasonal programme 

of workshops and events; learn the 

basics of garden design, beekeeping, 

dried flower and grass arranging, 

mushroom foraging, and more. 

Set within its world-famous gardens, 

it runs several popular, hands-on 

horticultural courses too, where guests 

can learn how to plant and prune 

correctly. 

thenewtinsomerset.com 

Also try... 

Llys Meddyg, Wales 

At this beautiful hotel and restaurant 

in Pembrokeshire, nature enthusiasts 

can explore the stunning local estuary, 

beaches and hedgerows in a fun and 

informative guided-foraging trip, 

learning how to safely identify and 

gather edible finds, before preparing 

and cooking a foraged feast. 

llysmeddyg.com 

The Royal Horticultural Society, 

various locations 

The UK's leading gardening charity, 

the RHS, has five stunning gardens 

across the country, all of which offer 

a huge variety of courses that cater 

for first-time gardeners through to the 

exceptionally green fingered. Learn 

how to create a wildlife pond, grow 

veg, plant beautiful containers and 

much more. 

rhs.org.uk 


Learn to cook up a storm 

Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons, Oxfordshire 

The on-site cookery school at Raymond Blanc’s 

luxury country hotel is considered one of the very 

best in the world. Courses are suitable for all 

levels, from half-day introductions to residential 

programmes, dinner party masterclasses, 

patisserie, ‘kitchen secrets’ and more. Many 

courses focus on recipes important to the famous 

French gastronome himself, showcasing dishes 

that inspired him to become the Michelinstarred 

chef he is today. The ‘Maman Blanc’ 

course is hugely popular, featuring a selection of 

Raymond's mother's much-loved recipes. 

belmond.com 

Also try...… 

Rick Stein's Cookery School, Cornwall: 

If you’d like to pick up some seafood cooking 

skills, then where better to do it than 

overlooking the beautiful Camel Estuary in 

Padstow? At Rick Stein's Cookery School, 

visitors can learn the secrets of some of the 

celebrity seafood chef’s famous recipes in a 

series of fun, hands-on cookery courses and 

one-dish workshops using incredibly fresh 

produce. 

rickstein.com/cookery-school 

The Grand, York 

The state-of-the-art cookery school at this 

beautiful five-star hotel, with its bifolding 

doors and sleek glass panelling, is undeniably 

impressive. It's aimed at home cooks of all 

abilities; choose from a varied schedule of 

express, half-day, full-day and three-day 

classes, covering everything from modern 

British dishes to authentic Asian cuisine. 

thegrandyork.co.uk/cookery-school 


IMAGES © GORDON SCAMMELL / HARRY WADE / BARRY MURPHY / 

Learn to take the reins 

Lucknam Park, Wiltshire 

The equestrian centre at this sumptuous countryhouse 

hotel is home to 35 lovely horses of mixed size 

and capability and caters for complete beginners, 

as well as more proficient riders wishing to increase 

their skill. Enjoy escorted hacks around the stunning 

500-acre estate or longer rides through the beautiful 

Cotswold countryside. There are also several 

particularly friendly ponies that are perfect for 

younger guests. 

lucknampark.co.uk/equestrian 

Also try... 

Stag Lodge Stables, London 

Situated right on the edge of London's Richmond 

Park, Stag Lodge Stables is a unique and truly 

beautiful place to learn to ride. It offers lessons and 

courses for children and adults of all ages from three 

upwards, as well as group hacks across the historic 

Royal Park. 

staglodgestables.com 

Gleneagles, Scotland 

The 50-acre equestrian centre at this magnificent 

hotel offers various horse-riding lessons and 

experiences for guests at all levels, from ages four 

and up. Children can enjoy ‘Own a Pony’ sessions, 

while the surrounding heather-clad mountains 

provide an unforgettable backdrop for exploring the 

Scottish countryside on horseback. 

gleneagles.com 

The best of the rest... 

▶ Lavish Lake District hotel The Samling 

has recently rebuilt their picture-perfect 

private jetty on Lake Windermere; here, 

guests can take part in guided wild swims. 

thesamlinghotel.co.uk 

▶ Beautiful Cotswolds retreat Thyme 

has a diverse calendar of classes and 

workshops, ranging from cooking lessons 

and flower arranging, to soap making, 

painting and more. 

thyme.co.uk 

▶ At Colwith Farm, Cornwall's first ploughto-bottle 

distillery, guests can learn how 

to distil their very own bespoke spirit at its 

dedicated Gin and Vodka School. 

colwithfarmdistillery.co.uk 

▶ With two unique locations in London, 

Petersham Nurseries provides a 

picturesque setting to enjoy a carefully 

curated selection of gardening, floristry, 

and cookery classes. 

petershamnurseries.com 

▶ At trendy concept hotel Birch in 

Hertfordshire, guests can take part in a 

variety of workshops, from pottery and 

painting to baking, foraging, candle 

making and more, all within a strikingly 

reimagined Georgian house. 

birchcommunity.com 


To the 

MANOR BORN 

One of Britain’s most exciting chefs, Ricki Weston reveals what’s next for 

his immersive dining experience at Whatley Manor Hotel & Spa’s Michelinstar 

restaurant The Dining Room and how he likes to keep diners guessing 

Text by Chantal Haines 

Ricki Weston stands at the pass of the expansive 

and gleaming kitchen of The Dining Room, 

casting a masterful eye over his showstopping 

dishes. His kitchen is a flurry of hushed activity – 

there is no shouting nor clamouring – just a confident, quickfooted 

buzz honed by the cool, calm executive chef. “I don’t 

like combative kitchens. You don’t need to shout and holler. 

I like my team to be focused and creative,” Ricki says. 

A rising star of modern British gastronomy, Ricki 

was appointed executive chef of Whatley Manor Hotel 

& Spa’s Michelin-star restaurant The Dining Room in 

2022, having been part of the team at Whatley Manor 

for over three years prior to that. Young, ambitious, and 

experimental, Ricki continues to elevate Whatley Manor’s 

multicourse menu at The Dining Room – and while tasting 

menus can sometimes overpromise and underperform, 

Ricki’s creation is undoubtedly one of the finest culinary 

experiences across the British Isles. 

“Tasting menus are so much more than just putting a 

menu on a piece of paper. These days, guests are looking 

for that immersive experience, something that is different 

to what other people do,” says Ricki. 

Ensconced behind buttery Cotswold-stone walls, 

the hotel's immaculate lawns, tinkling waterlily ponds 

and Grade-II-listed manor house trailed in ivy, climbing 

roses and wisteria is picture-book perfect – a decadent 

hideaway one would send an out-of-towner to if you 

wanted to epitomise English country-hotel elegance in 

a snapshot. Add to this, Ricki’s dining tour de force and 

guests are left wanting for nothing. 

Diners embarking on the tasting menu at Whatley 

Manor begin with drinks served overlooking the gardens 

or in the flower-festooned drawing room. Guests are 

delivered a brief menu hinting at what is to come… 

‘scallop, cucumber, trout roe’, and ‘lamb, asparagus, 

black olive’ pique interest on our visit. 

Ricki and his team create a unique sense of occasion 

from the very first morsels – with the amuse bouche 

served in the gleaming kitchen itself. An exhilarating 

peek behind the curtain, it's an experience where diners 

can talk to the chefs as they walk you through the small 

bites – in our case, a delectable array of nibbles including 

lobster, potato and turbot skirt, and a fantastic beetroot 

suet tart served on smoking, aromatic pine needles. 


“Guests start their journey with us in the kitchen having 

a few little bites. It’s an exciting part of what we can offer, 

as guests get the chance to come into the kitchen and see 

the chefs and ask questions about the food and the concept 

of the menu. I think it’s a memorable start, as it adds to the 

occasion and helps to deliver an unforgettable evening.” 

Tasting style and seasons 

Ricki describes his style at Whatley as British-influenced with 

classical cooking techniques. “We try to source as much as 

we can from the UK, utilising the seasons as a benchmark 

for the menu. We are lucky enough to have a beautiful stateof-the-art 

kitchen that runs completely on electric power 

situated just outside of the restaurant, and we use as much 

as we can from our garden.” 

The kitchen gardens, particularly during summer, are 

joyful and open for guests to wander. On our visit we were 

greeted by a canopy of delicate trailing sweet peas in bloom 

alongside beds brimming with rainbows of chard, plumes of 

lettuce and bright, plentiful courgettes. 

“When guests sit down, they can look out on to the 

gardens and see different produce that appears throughout 

the evening,” Ricki adds. 

“A couple of dishes that I really like currently are the 

Jacob's ladder with smoked eel, and the plum dessert that 

we finish with. The Jacob's ladder course uses the short rib of 

the cow and incorporates a couple of classical techniques to 

bring out the richness of the beef and contrast this with the 


FIRST PAGE: 

EXECUTIVE CHEF 

RICKI WESTON 

FORAGING FOR WILD 

GARLIC 

CLOCKWISE FROM 

LEFT: THE KITCHEN 

GARDEN; JACOB'S 

LADDER SMOKED 

EEL, PARMESAN, 

CONSOMMÉ; BIKES 

ARE AVAILABLE 

FOR GUESTS; AGED 

DUCK RATATOUILLE'; 

STATE-OF-THE-ART 

KITCHEN 

NEXT PAGE, LEFT 

TO RIGHT: THE 

HERBACEOUS 

GARDEN; AN 

ELEGANT CLASSIC 

ROOM; RICKI 

WESTON 

LAST PAGE: A 

SUMPTUOUS 

BEDROOM SUITE; 

MUSHROOM WITH 

AGED BALSAMIC; 

WHATLEY MANOR 

HOTEL & SPA 

“ 

Guests start their journey with us in the kitchen having a few little bites... it 

adds to the occasion and helps to deliver an unforgettable evening 

” 

smokiness of the eel. When we did 

the first illustration of the menu it was 

important for me to celebrate real 

local ingredients. 

The cows are farmed next to 

the hotel by a farmer called Tom 

Wakefield who we have a great 

relationship with. It’s a small herd of 

cattle which are 100 per cent grassfed 

organic Aberdeen Angus and 

the meat is phenomenal and really 

showcases the local aspect of the 

menu we have created.” 

“The plum course is the one dish 

that we have kept on the menu since 

the first week. For me it’s a perfect 

way to end the experience, combining 

sweet, salty and acidity all in one. 

We preserve plums throughout the 

year to be able to have it on yearround. 

This is another part of the 

ethos here – to reduce as much waste 

as possible. Whether that’s through 

fermentation or vinegars using the 

stones of the plum – everything is 

looked at as a possible product that 

we can use in one form or another.” 

This mindful approach saw The 

Dining Room’s sustainable practices 

rewarded the new Green Michelin 

star in January 2021 – an accolade 

it retained in 2022 alongside just 23 

restaurants in the UK. 


Inspiration and precision 

Prior to Whatley Manor, Ricki spent 

three years at the two-star Michelin 

restaurant Sat Bains in Nottingham 

– an experience that is etched in his 

memory. 

“Sat Bains will always be one of 

my biggest inspirations. The intensity 

and understanding of flavours and 

ethos in that restaurant is a massive 

part of the chef I am today. Such 

forward-thinking and uniqueness 

makes it one of the best restaurants in 

the country. 

“I have always remembered 

how Sat [Bains] used to compare 

aspects of a tasting menu to a 

theatre production – meaning you 

have to consider how to keep viewers 

engaged for two or three hours and 

moderate the tempo of the service 

and keep the experience entertaining 

and surprising. 

“That’s why sometimes it's very 

quick between courses and at some 

points we slow things right down and 

tie in a more elaborate wine service. 

Or, we dress and reveal a dish in a 

certain way, utilising not just taste but 

scent, sight, and sound.” 

Thus, every course at The Dining 

Room is skillfully presented and 

impeccably designed – whether 

unveiled with a dramatic puff of 

aromatic smokiness, or with intricate 

placement of cerise pink singular 

petals from the garden – no dish is 

without a level of drama, intrigue, 

thought and excitement to make it 

stand out. 

Flavours, textures and tempo 

all play integral parts to Ricki’s 

cooking. “Quite a few of the dishes 

are inspired by nostalgic memories of 

my childhood and favourite dishes,” 

Ricki says. “I love food that evokes 

memories. Take our mussel tart, for 

example. A big part of my childhood 

was going to the coast and walking 

past the fish markets and smelling 

all the produce and sitting on the 

seafront tasting cockles, mussels and 

having all those salty sea days. 

I think this dish imparts those kind of 

memories for diners, too.” 

New for 2023 

Spring 2023 sees the launch of the 

new tasting menu at The Dining 

Room, including tweaks to muchloved 

dishes and some newcomers. 

“The new menu is massively inspired 

by my own perceptions and what food 

“ 

Quite a few of the dishes are inspired by nostalgic memories of my childhood 

and favourite dishes... I love food that evokes memories 

” 


means to me. We are continuously 

looking at new dishes and ingredients 

that fit within the menu style that 

we have created. Everyone in my 

kitchen has fantastic experience and 

knowledge that is brought to the table 

when we develop a new menu. We are 

also looking more closely at evolving 

the guest journey throughout the 

evening and thinking about how we 

can make their experience even more 

personal for each guest that walks 

through the door.” 

“We are using brill as our new 

fish course, which is such a great 

product. The freshness and sweetness 

of the fish is cooked with an English 

sparkling wine and scallop mousse 

and works beautifully. We wrap the 

whole fillet of the fish with truffles 

from Zak at Wiltshire Truffles, which 

gives the dish great contrast and 

earthiness. It’s a dish that showcases 

brilliant English ingredients. 

“Field to plate and seasonal 

produce will always be a focus. As 

a chef, inspiration comes from all 

over. I think the chef Poul Andrias 

Ziska in the Faroe Islands is amazing 

when it comes to produce. Using 

ingredients from around the island, 

techniques that are passed down 

through generations and having 

achieved two Michelin stars in such a 

remote place with limited supply is a 

testament I think to his understanding 

of ingredients and habitat of the 

islands.” 

Eco escapism 

Amid the grounds and luxuriously 

appointed bedrooms of Whatley 

Manor, things are going from 

strength to strength. 

The hotel has become the first 

countryside luxury hotel in the 

UK to achieve Silver accreditation 

through EarthCheck, a leading 

business advisory group specialising 

in sustainability for the travel and 

tourism industry. Whatley has also a 

host of other awards to its name from 

‘Best Sustainable Achievement’ at 

the 2022 Boutique Hotelier Awards 

to a recent Condé Nast Johansens 

Sustainability Award. 

Much more work was required 

than simply replacing the odd 


single-use plastic (though this has also been done in 

every guest room). General manager Sue Williams says 

the Earthcheck accreditation is the fruit of several years 

of diligent work across the hotel, including overhauling 

the waste management, utilities and supplier 

relationships. 

“We are proof that you can be a five-star luxurious 

destination but also be environmentally positive,” Sue 

adds. 

The proof, they say, is in the pudding and every 

inch of Whatley feels individual and sumptuous. Its 

award-winning eco-conscious Aquarias Spa features 

a large hydro pool; thermal experiences, including 

a tepidarium and steam grotto; plus an outdoor 

pool space and a plethora of bespoke and high-end 

treatments. The spa also offers a floatation pod and is 

set in blissful surrounds. 

The hotel has deluxe bedrooms and suites 

overlooking the gardens and courtyards, meaning 

guests are spoilt for choice. Welcome touches – such as 

the home-baked shortbread awaiting you in your room, 

walking maps to explore the grounds, and seasonal 

flowers – make a stay all the more 'boutique' in feel. 

Ricki also oversees the afternoon tea offering and the 

hotel’s more informal Grey’s Brasserie, but be sure to 

save room for the menu experience at The Dining Room 

– it will not disappoint. 

Ricki Weston’s top 

local spots... 

▶ Stroud Farmers Market takes place 

every Saturday and is a multi-award 

winning market that offers a rich variety 

of local produce from farmers, growers 

and producers in the Five Valleys in 

Gloucestershire. 

▶ Malmesbury has its own farmers and 

local artisan market every Friday from 9am 

to 3pm, so you can always stop off to take 

a stroll and enjoy the range of stalls ahead 

of checking into Whatley Manor. 

▶ Whatley Manor is located next door to 

Tracklements, where you will be able to 

see where they make the world-renowned 

condiments, as well as taste and buy them 

to enjoy at home. 


Carpenter’s Cottage, 

Tremaine Manor, Looe 

Find your special place 

From luxury contemporary barn conversions to charming thatched cottages, 

we’ve hand-picked the very best to bring you holiday memories to treasure. 

A portfolio of over 

600 luxury, self-catering 

holiday properties 

in the UK and 

Northern Ireland 

01386 897 959 

ruralretreats.co.uk

Holistic 

Highs 

Whether you want to take the plunge in an ice bath, try out 

some high-tech treatments, or fancy a spot of forest bathing, 

we discover some of the UK’s top retreats and unique spa 

experiences that will nourish mind, body and soul 




Coastal 

romance 

Perched among the clifftops 

overlooking the sweeping sandy 

beach of Mawgan Porth, at North 

Cornwall’s stylish eco hotel Scarlet, 

curious couples can embark on 

a ‘Rediscover Journey’ together, 

designed to help synchronise 

energies. You’ll start by setting 

your intentions in an Ayurvedic 

consultation before unwinding 

with a bathing ritual such as a 

rhassoul, or a session in one of the 

stunning clifftop hot tubs. Next, 

a guided meditation or sound 

experience, followed by either 

a couple’s massage lesson or a 

synchronised treatment to leave 

you feeling connected and in tune 

with one another. The finishing 

touch? A shared Epsom salt bath 

with a glass of English sparkling 

wine, and full use of the stunning 

spa facilities. 

From £350 per couple, 

scarlethotel.co.uk 


And breathe 

The Botanical Bothy is a new 

exclusive booking space at dreamy 

Cotswolds escape Thyme. It's home 

to a unique treatment designed to 

promote restorative calm within 

both body and mind. The private 

beautifully designed cabin features 

sleek warmed seating and a tranquil 

private garden and veranda, 

complete with a roaring fireplace 

and two show-stopping baths, 

side-by-side, for herbal soaks. The 

treatment – the Bertioli Ritual – is a 

combination of guided breathwork, 

lymphatic body combing and 

pressure-point techniques that 

concentre on the areas of the 

body that hold the most tension. 

A cleansing hair wash and head 

massage completes the experience, 

ensuring that guests leave feeling 

deeply relaxed and equipped with 

breathing techniques to use at 

home. 

£225pp (solo) or £195pp for 

couples, thyme.co.uk 


A celestial reset 

In West Sussex, Ockenden Manor 

Hotel’s ‘Full Moon & Fabulous’ 

retreats are scheduled to take 

place during the full moon; a 

time when we are said to be more 

receptive and open to inspiration. 

Harnessing the power of nature, 

the five elements and the moon, 

this celestial-inspired two-night 

experience is led by Swedish yoga 

instructor Helena Skoog, and 

involves a combination of yoga 

and meditation sessions, forest 

bathing, i-sopod floatation, 

aromatherapy massage, seasonal 

food and more, as well as 

accommodation and use of the 

hotel’s award-winning spa. 

From £883pp, 

hshotels.co.uk/ockenden-manor 


Escape to award-winning Hoar Cross Hall, nestled in the idyllic 

Staffordshire countryside, with an indulgent Spa Stay or Multi-Night Retreat. 

Let our historic Hall host your spacation to remember.

Take the plunge 

“The cold is our warm friend, 

our mirror and our teacher,” 

says cold-water guru, Wim Hof. 

Cold-water immersion is said to 

improve both mental and physical 

performance, so if you're curious, 

then head to the Coach House Spa 

at sumptuous Surrey Hills hotel, 

Beaverbrook. At its one-day Wim 

Hof Workshop, guests are taught 

the three pillars of the extreme 

athlete’s now famous method 

– breathing technique, cold 

exposure, and commitment – by 

a certified WHM instructor. After 

learning the principles of breathing 

for stress management and 

breath-holding techniques, guests 

are then guided in the practice of 

‘controlled hyperventilation’ before 

sinking into a bracing six-minute 

ice bath. Brrrrrr… 

Prices start from £250pp, 

beaverbrook.co.uk 


Elemental 

invigoration 

Set within 380 acres of parkland 

just outside Belfast, the unique 

Thermal Spa Village at luxury 

hotel Galgorm is the first of its kind 

in Ireland. It features an extensive 

selection of hot tubs, heated 

pools, steam rooms, saunas and 

more, all set on the banks of the 

spectacular River Maine. The 

invigorating Beltane Experience 

has been designed to stimulate all 

the senses using fire, air and water; 

relax al fresco by a roaring firepit 

before enjoying a dip in one of the 

picture-perfect hot tubs by the 

flowing river’s edge. Afterwards, 

cool down in the spa’s -10°C Snow 

Cabin (where snow falls every 

30 minutes) or warm up with a 

Celtic Sauna Infusion – a cleansing 

aromatherapy experience led by a 

sauna master. 

Spa packages start at £69pp, 

galgorm.com 


LUXURY HOLIDAYS IN NORTH CORNWALL 

– 

Hand-picked properties for inspiring interiors, unique features, and 

amazing views; all served up alongside the spectacular coast. 

www.shorestays.co.uk

A gut feeling 

It’s said that good health starts 

with a happy gut. Set on the 

beautiful Goodwood Estate in 

Sussex, this five-day holistic retreat 

is a gut health overhaul designed 

by gut-health expert and celebrity 

nutritionist, Stephanie Moore. 

Drawing on Goodwood’s ‘fieldto-fork’ 

organic food philosophy 

and the estate’s natural beauty to 

heal and re-energise, the retreat 

features a full body-composition 

analysis and private nutritional 

consultation, specialist treatments, 

daily group talks and guided walks, 

plus all food and drink and five 

nights at The Goodwood Hotel. If 

you’re not ready to commit to the 

full five-day programme, there’s a 

taster day available too. 

£2,225 per person sharing a 

twin or double room, £2,600 for a 

single occupancy room, taster day 

£220, goodwood.com 

Hi-tech treatments 

Manchester’s five-star hotel, The Lowry, has launched 

‘RE:TREAT' – the UK’s first technology led spa. Whether 

you fancy submerging yourself in a sensory deprivation 

tank (a dark, soundproof cocoon filled with saltwater, 

said to increase wellbeing and creativity in under an 

hour), switching off in a meditation pod, or slipping into 

the freezing temperatures of a cryotherapy chamber 

(said to help promote sleep and lymphatic drainage), this 

smart, high-tech space offers a combination of cuttingedge 

treatments, while in-house experts are on hand to 

perform the likes of IV drips and ultrasound scans. 

Packages start from £85pp, thelowryhotel.com 


Reconnect with 

nature 

Nestled within the New Forest 

National Park, Herb House - the 

award-winning spa at luxury 

hotel Lime Wood – has created 

a selection of ‘ReWild Yourself’ 

experiences. Inspired by the rhythms 

of the seasons, these new naturepowered 

retreats and spa days have 

been designed to instil a sense of 

calm and serenity. Enjoy guided 

forest bathing in ancient woodland, 

calming yoga classes in an aromatic 

herb garden, outdoor fitness and 

breathwork sessions, soothing herbpowered 

treatments, seasonal food, 

and more, plus plenty of time to 

unwind in the stunning spa. 

Rewilding retreats start at 

£225pp, limewoodhotel.co.uk 

Spa news... 

• The brand-new spa at landmark 

London hotel Claridge’s features a 

streamlined swimming pool, steam 

rooms, saunas and seven luxurious 

treatment rooms. Designed by 

interior architect André Fu, the 

space is inspired by his own visits 

to Japanese temples and Zen 

gardens in Kyoto. 

→ claridges.co.uk 

• Award-winning Nottinghamshire 

day-spa retreat Eden Hall and 

beautiful Staffordshire spa hotel 

Hoar Cross Hall have recently 

revealed an all-new treatment 

menu available at both properties. 

Based on three all-encompassing 

pillars – radiance, revive and 

renewal – each two-hour treatment 

has been expertly designed to 

leave guests feeling rejuvenated 

and relaxed. 

→ baronseden.com/hoar-cross-hall 

• Spanning 2,500 square metres, 

the sleek, state-of-the-art spa at 

the recently opened Fairmont 

Windsor Park is briming with 


CLOCKWISE FROM 

BELOW LEFT: 

CRYOTHERAPY 

AT GLENEAGLES 

TOWNHOUSE; 

STATE-OF-THE-ART SPA 

AT FAIRMONT WINDSOR 

PARK; CARDEN PARK 

HOTEL RELAXATION 

ROOM 

high-tec innovation. There are 18 

treatment rooms, a hammam, a 

20-metre indoor pool, a Japanese 

ashiyu foot-ritual bath and the first 

multi-person cryotherapy chamber 

in the UK, plus pretty cherry 

blossom trees by the pool. 

→ fairmont-windsorpark.com 

• The hotly anticipated Yorkshire 

Spa Retreat is now open. The new 

£4.5-million holiday resort includes 

a nature-inspired spa, with a wildswimming 

pond, a sauna, a hydro 

pool, a Himalayan salt chamber 

and more. 

→ yorkshire-spa-retreat.co.uk 

• With a show-stopping heated 

outdoor infinity pool overlooking 

the hotel’s very own sandy 

beach, the recently enlarged and 

enhanced C Bay Spa at Carbis Bay 

Hotel near St Ives has unveiled 

beautiful new treatment and 

changing rooms, and a range of 

new treatments using luxurious 

products by Bamford and organic 

seaweed brand Voya. 

→ carbisbayhotel.co.uk 

• In Cheshire, the new English 

Country Spa Garden at The Manor 

House Hotel is both pretty and 

incredibly well appointed – swing 

lazily in one of the hanging day 

beds, unwind in the sunken 

hydrotherapy tub, or warm up in 

the herbal potting shed sauna. 

→ manorhousealsager.com 

• Set within the former Bank of 

Scotland building on Edinburgh’s 

historic St Andrew Square, The 

Gleneagles Townhouse opened 

in 2022. In ‘The Strong Rooms’, 

located within the old bank vault 

itself, guests have access to a 

cryotherapy chamber, an infrared 

sauna, a state-of-the-art class 

studios, treatments and more. 

→ gleneagles.com/townhouse 

• The spa at Staffordshire 

hotel Moddershall Oaks has 

designed a new treatment 

exclusively for those experiencing 

hormonal changes, such as the 

perimenopause and menopause. 

The Pause & Renew 50-minute 

treatment includes a cool 

compress, a soothing skin mask, 

mindfulness and more. 

→ moddershalloaks.com 

• The multi-award-winning 

£10-million spa at Cheshire’s 

Carden Park Hotel has launched 

a brand-new private spa package, 

meaning that you can have the 

entire 4,500-square-metre spa all 

to yourself. 

→ cardenpark.co.uk 


Dog-friendly 

ADVENTURE 

Two on feet and one on paws spend a week in a caravan 

in the northern Lake District; bagging Wainwrights, 

teaching a pup to paddleboard, being swallowed whole 

by mountain air and not even minding 

Text by Vanessa Humphrey 


THE DARLING, THE GO-ALONG, 

AND THE MOLE WOMAN 

It’s three-something in the morning and a thousand 

crickets are having a rave on the fibreglass roof. 

Either that, or the wind-whipped caravan’s wrapped 

in a rainstorm intent on sending us doddering into 

Derwentwater. 

We’re in a walk-from-one-end-to-the-other-inthree-seconds-flat 

home on wheels that’s not quite as 

expeditionary as a matchbox, not so Babylonian that 

we don't still coo over the little television that rattles out 

a sometimes-clear episode of The Simpsons. Here, we 

have spent seven sweet days of spring marvelling at the 

cold moonlit dash to the shower block and the unspoken 

communion that happens between us highfalutin 

campers; sure, we might compare awnings and what’s 

being cooked at breakfast, but we nod as our dogs start 

turf war squabbles and roll eyes in unison as one or the 

other writhes with the electric hook-up cable. 

Each morning, we ready ourselves for the day’s 

expedition on deck chairs strategically placed in front of 

an electric heater that threatens to lift off at any given 

moment, and wear sherpa-lined dry robes for no reason 

whatsoever. Each night, we sup on yellow rice poured 

unceremoniously from a packet, play rock-paper-scissors 

for the one good slice of grilled cheese (the rest are burnt 

or part-raw, depending on which side of the pan they 

landed on), and smear more butter on the cob than there’s 

lime mortar on the slate stone. There’s red wine in plastic 

goblets (notes of plum, cracked black pepper), raspberry 

kombucha in a tin, and clotted cream rice pudding from 

the “Waitrose of the North”. Us herbivores don’t open the 

fridge’s dairy compartment, for it contains a pungent pâté 

left behind by Dad-in-law. 

We, a group of three, are the following: Four-legged he — 

the darling — the goodest boy and then some, a doer of 

no wrong with a gold heart and an irrational fear of things 

falling on his head. 

Human he — the go-along — doesn’t know where he is, 

but is happy to be here, kind eyes, would like to do all the 

things and plan precisely none of them. 

I — the mole woman — barely seeing, characteristically 

averse to the light, happiest in burrow with good grub but 

otherwise utterly native to the wilderness. 

Like any salad-years roamers worth their salt, our 

scheduled pilgrimages were decided in front of a 

letterpress tray of embroidered fabric patches. There, 

in a colourful Keswick curio store, we crafted a whipsmart 

game of “you pick one, I pick one, then you pick 

one more, and I’ll pick one more,” and so our fate was 

sealed: Rannerdale Knotts, Hallin Fell, Derwentwater, and 

Bassenthwaite Lake. (The darling picked up a soft lantern 

from a strategically placed basket on the way out the door. 


‘ 

We are silly for the Lakes, all three 

of us – those spired and swollen fells 

as far as the eye can see... 

’ 

We all chuckled and took pictures and were smitten. He 

refused to carry it home.) 

And so, to Buttermere. With boots triple laced as Dad 

had taught, a dry bag filled with honest fare from the 

village, and a compass that no one really knew how to use 

(but brought expeditionary feel by the bucketfuls), the 

darling, the go-along, and the mole woman pushed into a 

hinterland all of our own. We got lost almost immediately. 

One local and an “I told you so” later, so began a 

scramble-up-the-Wainwright-and-pootle-around-the-lake 

route that had us gobbling up contour lines like plein-air 

Pac-Men. At the craggy tip top of Rannerdale Knotts — 

where the darling flirted with the boundaries of safe overthe-edge 

viewing and the mole woman set about a lecture 

on the poetic Romantics — there was just enough time for 

a steaming brew poured from the flask and a fondant egg 

or two for good measure. 

With sights and snouts set on grub, we tumbled down 

the hillock on a flattened ridge and cobbled together a 

questionable retelling of all that we’d learnt about the 

Norman invasion against the Buttermere Cumbrians; 

part National Trust, part native folklore, part wide-eyed 

conjecture. An hour or so later, flumped on a picnic bench 

outside a corner-quoined tea room, there was a banquet 

of stilton pie and mash, and a farmer’s collie who showed 

her belly for pastry crusts. We made moustaches out of 

coconut ice cream and coffee foam while two blue tits got 

in a big, talon-wielding fight, and made frank admissions 

that we might like to stay awhile longer or forever. 

There was a touch of sogginess about as we did an 

accidental circumnavigation of Derwentwater the next 

day, whistling in tandem to our chosen theme song 

(Going Up the Country by Canned Heat), until we found 

a secluded-enough launch site. It was empty but for a 

group of five or six wild swimmers — the kind of folk I think 

I’d be friends with if only they had four legs — who were 

doing the dry-robe-wobble back to their cars like a band 

of sodden caterpillars. One of us inflated the Föhn board, 

while the other two scooped up waterlogged sticks and 


a life so lovely, we would never want to leave it. We 

did bickering and heads-back laughing and swam in 

Bassenthwaite and smiled at the places we’d stayed 

with the people we love (mine in Ambleside, yours in 

Thirlmere). We made a video diary on the ascent of Hallin 

Fell and committed the rest to memory. 

We are silly for the Lakes, all three of us. We peep those 

spired and swollen fells as far as the eye can see; them 

valley walls that none but the Herdwick sheep can muster. 

We grin at one another, and become like the cats that 

got the cream. Here, we deal in pick’n’mix and memories 

and we aren't always happy, but we are always good. The 

stick, the sword, and the pen. Wilbur & The Wishbones. 

This was our party — all treasured whippersnappers, all 

folk of one-of-a-kind character, a girl and a boy and a 

hound to round off the pack. All these years, any place one 

of us went, two more were sure to follow. One of us put it in 

a nutshell: “We’d go together, even if we had to scramble 

there.” 

made serious business of being idle in the shallows. Having 

decided that paddle boarding with a thirty-kilo velcro 

dog who wants to sit on your lap was a suitably perilous 

undertaking, we copped a push away from the pebbles. 

I paddled out flat; I made bearings westward; I 

scooped the lake away with arms as suited for the job as 

liquorice sticks — but I could not make the little pontoon 

go anywhere but northward towards a scattering flock of 

mohican goosanders. After that, I took to treating the oar 

like a lanky anchor, jabbing it into the silt and schlepping 

myself through the lake like a wooden spoon through 

copper pot fudge. By now, we had a little audience of 

two pensioners who were clasping palms together and 

pointing, as new babies do, at “that dog on the paddle 

board,” and with that I became so full of hot air that I 

practically blew back to shore. It dawned on me, as sure 

as eggs is eggs, I’d never forget the day the darling and the 

mole woman went waterward. 

Other days, we dozed under blankets while snow 

came down and looked at the moon and the neighbours’ 

dinners through binoculars. We read books and instruction 

manuals (how do we turn the LED light off?) and made 


Beautiful 

BATHROOMS 

From fluffy towels and fragrant toiletries to spacious showers 

and enormous bathtubs (sometimes even two…), there are few 

greater pleasures in life than a luxurious hotel bathroom. 

We discover some of the UK’s most sumptuous spaces where 

you can get squeaky clean in style 


1The Ark Royal Signature Suite at 

Malmaison, Newcastle 

If you don’t want to waste precious time 

waiting for your travelling companion 

to finish in the bath, then plump for the 

sophisticated Signature Suite at Malmaison 

Newcastle, because here you’ll each get a tub 

of your own. This stunning open-plan room has 

the bathroom at its centre, separated from the 

bedroom by smart glass walls. Other highlights 

include a spacious walk-in rain shower and 

vast windows offering fabulous views over 

Newcastle’s Millennium Bridge, which can be 

enjoyed from the tub(s). Why not pop a bottle 

and soak it all up, side by side. 

The Ark Royal Signature Suite starts at £269 

per night, malmaison.com/locations/newcastle 


2 

Bedroom 2 at At the 

Chapel, Somerset 

In the centre of trendy 

Somerset town Bruton, At 

the Chapel is a stunning, Grade-IIlisted 

17th-century former chapel 

that has been creatively converted 

into a truly beautiful hotel. The eight 

luxurious bedrooms here carefully 

combine contemporary, minimalist 

interior design with some of the 

historic building’s original features; no 

two rooms are the same, and so each 

bathroom is also totally unique. Our 

favourite is located on the first floor, 

in Bedroom 2; here, the sleek and 

serene space is all white marble and 

clean lines, with a large walk-in shower 

and a huge oval-shaped freestanding 

bath sitting underneath a magnificent 

19th-century lancet window. All this 

plus a generous supply of heavenly 

scented Bramley toiletries, made 

nearby in Wiltshire. 

Bedroom 2 starts at £185 per night, 

atthechapel.co.uk 


IMAGE © JAKE EASTHAM 

4The Heron Suite at Lympstone Manor, 

Devon 

With spectacular views of the Exe Estuary 

and the Jurassic Coast, Lympstone Manor 

is an exceptional five-star country-house hotel with a 

Michelin-star restaurant, a brand new outdoor pool, 

and its very own vineyard. There are 21 sumptuous 

guest rooms and six luxurious shepherd’s huts here, and 

when it comes to beautiful bathing options, well, guests 

are spoiled for choice. Several rooms have oval-shaped 

baths outside on private terraces, and even some 

of the shepherd’s huts have beautiful outdoor tubs 

overlooking the vines. For a truly unforgettable bathing 

experience, the magnificent Heron Suite’s marble 

bathroom enjoys direct south-facing views across 

the estuary and has not one, but two glistening gold 

bathtubs, romantically positioned side by side. 

Rooms start at £360 per night, 

lympstonemanor.co.uk 

3 

The Bushby Bacon Suite at The Retreat at 

Elcot Park 

Named after Anthony Bushby Bacon who 

owned Elcot Park in the early 19th century, 

this spacious two-bedroom suite oozes opulence and 

artistic glamour. Elegant and refined, the airy, whitewalled 

bathroom has twin sinks, a large walk-in shower 

and a show-stopping roll-top bath that sits proudly in 

a large bay window. Made from marble, this clottedcream 

coloured tub has been beautifully hand-painted 

with intricate purple wisteria that continues on to the 

surrounding walls, ‘growing’ all around the room. 

Three large windows flood the space with natural light, 

which bounces off the polished wood floor, antique 

mahogany furniture and the elegant lily shaped golden 

chandelier that hangs gracefully from the ceiling. 

The Bushby Bacon Suite starts at £560 per night, 

retreatelcotpark.com 


IMAGE © MARK ASHBEE 

5Master Bedroom at Gleneagles 

Townhouse, Edinburgh 

With inspiring views over Edinburgh, the 

boutique bedrooms at the newly opened 

Gleneagles Townhouse pack some serious interiordesign 

punch. The rooms pair Georgian elegance 

with contemporary comfort, and guests can relish in 

regally high ceilings, king-sized beds, wooden floors, 

antique rugs and panelled walls, and some very 

gorgeous bathrooms too. Master bedrooms have a 

separate stylish bathing area hidden away behind 

chic wooden screens; here, luxurious green marble 

flooring and original artwork provide the perfect 

backdrop for a large roll-top slipper bath, complete 

with gold taps, and a freestanding marble sink with 

wonderful views over the historic St Andrew Square. 

Rooms start at £495 per night, 

gleneagles.com/townhouse 


7The Cabin at Settle, Norfolk 

Home to three beautifully 

designed and decorated 

accommodation spaces, Settle 

is nestled within blissfully private parkland 

in South Norfolk. Combining enormous 

windows, reclaimed marble and aged 

timber, the stunning bathroom in the 

lakeside Cabin is home to a sizeable 

shower, a porcelain basin and a vast 

stone egg bath, perfectly positioned for 

soaking up the surroundings, both inside 

and out. Tumbling houseplants, soft 

towels and La-Eva toiletries add to the 

stylish serenity of this gorgeous space. 

Outside lies another picturesque bathing 

option – a wood-heated bath set on a 

private deck overlooking a rather magical 

lily pad-covered lake. 

The Cabin is £1,080 for 3 nights, 

settlenorfolk.co.uk 

6 

The Acacia Suite at Pennyhill Park, Surrey 

If high-tech innovation floats your bathroom boat, 

then check yourself in to Pennyhill Park in Surrey. 

It features an award-winning spa, a Michelin-star 

restaurant, and its guestrooms are just as deluxe. In the 

state-of-the-art Acacia Suite, guests can take a shower 

lying down. Perfect for those looking for something more 

invigorating than a bath but with a similar amount of effort 

required, simply lie flat on the heated mosaic surface and 

enjoy six different waterjets being simultaneously powered at 

different parts of the body. This cutting-edge bathroom also 

features soothing blue lighting, a large walk-in shower and a 

waterproof ‘Aquavision’ TV. 

The Acacia Suite starts at £565 per night, 

exclusive.co.uk/pennyhill-park 


A LUXURY HOTEL IN THE HEART OF BATH 

– 

Stay and experience the thermal spring waters and magnificent Georgian architecture 

in this special Unesco World Heritage destination 

www.thegainsboroughbathspa.co.uk

8Deluxe Beach Lodge at Carbis 

Bay Hotel, Cornwall 

Just around the bay from the 

artistic town of St Ives, Carbis 

Bay Estate is a super luxurious five-star hotel 

and spa that sits directly on the sweeping 

white sands of its very own 25-acre Blue 

Flag beach. Its beautifully appointed Deluxe 

Beach Lodges, which sleep eight, maximise 

their seaside location and the panoramic 

coastal views at every turn; even the plush 

marble bathrooms offer stunning copper 

roll-top baths and walk-in showers that 

directly overlook the turquoise-blue bay. 

There aren’t many places where you can 

grab a glass of Cornish fizz, lie back, and 

spot dolphins from the comfort of the tub... 

Beach Lodges start at £1,200 per night, 

carbisbayhotel.co.uk 

9 

Rock View Suite at The 

Cashel Palace, County 

Tipperary 

In the heart of Ireland, just an 

hour's drive east from Limerick, Cashel 

Palace is a grand Palladian manor that 

has been splendidly reimagined into 

a luxurious hotel, thanks to a recent 

multimillion-euro renovation. For a specialoccasion 

stay, the two elegant Rock 

View Suites on the first floor of the main 

house feature high ceilings, a romantic 

four-poster bed, an original fireplace and 

soothing muted tones. The sumptuous 

en-suite marble bathroom is as pretty as a 

picture, with framed botanical paintings, 

smart toiletries from French brand Memo, 

fluffy towels and an indulgently deep 

marble bath that offers fabulous views of 

the famed Rock of Cashel. 

Rock View Suites start at €729 per 

night, cashelpalacehotel.ie 


IMAGE © JAKE EASTHAM / MICHELLE CHAPLOW 

Lookout at THE PIG- on the Beach, Dorset 

PIG offers plenty of unique bathrooms across 

its litter of stylish hotels and beautifully designed 

10The bedrooms, but The Lookout at its Dorset outpost is 

particularly special. Tucked away just beyond the hotel’s abundant 

vegetable garden, this picture-perfect hideaway for two is in fact an 

incredibly romantic two-storey dovecote, complete with thatched roof. 

Inside, there’s a four-poster bed and a wood burner on the ground floor. 

Head upstairs, and you’ll find the show-stopping bathroom, complete 

with a monsoon shower, a velvet chaise longue, and a freestanding 

bath surrounded by enormous windows, which provide gorgeous views 

of the gardens and stunning Jurassic Coast beyond. And that’s not 

all – there’s a statement chandelier hanging from the vaulted ceiling, 

a handy telescope for boat spotting, and a second wood burner to 

keep you cosy as you bathe. Grab a garden-inspired cocktail from the 

minibar (it’s a tough choice between the lemon drop chili margarita and 

the verbena cosmo) turn on the taps, and float away. 

The Lookout starts at £605 per night, thepighotel.com 


From Britain to 

ANDALUCÍA 

Renowned Health and Fitness Coach and Ex-Pro Triathlete, Chris Roy has 

launched Active Cycling Holidays from Britain to the south of Spain, with 

guided tours, for all abilities exploring some of the world’s best scenery... 

Would you like to explore hidden areas that will take 

your breath away on a guided cycling holiday? 

Top Health and Fitness Coach, Chris Roy, spent 

10 years living and training in Andalusian as a Pro 

Triathlete. Regardless of your fitness level, Chris and his team of 

guides have tailored a holiday that is ideal for those active holiday 

enthusiasts who want to explore and enjoy this beautiful landscape 

and scenery, in a warm climate. 

Chris's Active Guided Cycling Holidays are for those who want 

to gain fitness while exploring the south of Spain. You will be taken 

from the coast near Malaga, winding your way through the orange 

groves, up through the rolling hills covered in sun-soaked olive trees. 

While passing through the many ancient sleepy towns and villages, 

all with their own stunning views you will realise what a pleasure it is 

to find such places, many of which you may not have heard of. 

Andalucía is often referred to as the fruit basket of Europe. 

Chris along with his team will guide you through regions, where 

they spent many years living and you will see as they do, just how 

inspirational these places are. You leave with a sense that you will 

need to return as it feels like a postcard rather than reality. 

Active Cycling Holiday guides have so much experience 

between them, having been involved in Antarctic expeditions, 

high altitude training camps, assessed Duke of Edinburgh awards, 

been part of coast-to-coast teams, competed at the highest 

level of Professional sport and gained countless hours working in 

institutes of sport and top rehabilitation centres. Chris, Marta, 


SPECIAL FEATURE 

Carlos, Paul and Mari-Carmen will take care of you and instil a level of 

happiness and worry-free peace of mind, that will enhance your active 

holiday experience leaving you with a real sense of accomplishment and 

satisfaction. 

The 7-day cycle holidays take place in May, June, September and 

October 2023, taking guests through Andalucía with plenty of cycling, 

two optional explorations days visiting the “Alhambra Palace” and 

“Camino de Rey”, also the trips include nutritional advice and fitness 

coaching. The trips are made to be comfortable for leisure cyclists and 

those that complete any outdoor activities. Male and Female Hybrid bikes 

are provided following a bike fit at the start of the holiday. Plus, there are 

also options to bring your own bike with discount off the holiday, and 

E-bikes are also available. ◆ 

How to book 

Everything you need including your bike 

rental, luggage and journey transfers, 

overnight accommodation, breakfast, 

dinner and hydration are all provided. 

Prices for 7 day cycle holidays, from £2,700 

guidedcyclingholidays.com 


Britain 

In bloom 

From restful gardens to festoons of colourful bulbs, the 

British Isles offers floral masterclasses in some of the most 

dramatic and awe-inspiring locations... 

Floristry 

workshops at 

Armathwaite 

Hall Hotel 

Few venues can rival 

Armathwaite Hall Hotel when 

it comes to location. This 

Lake District jewel is set in 

400 restful acres of deer park 

and woodland, bordered 

by the mesmeric waters of 

Bassenthwaite Lake and 

framed by the magnificent 

Skiddaw Mountain and Lake 

District Fells. Throughout 

2023, Armathwaite – a 

proud member of Pride of 

Britain Hotels – is offering 

a range of floral workshops 

in collaboration with 

Cumberland Flower Farm. 

Guests can enjoy a range of 

seasonal courses throughout 

the year – crafting fresh spring 

Text by Chantal Haines 

wreaths made from Cumbrian 

foliage, plants, bulbs and 

flowers using sustainable 

techniques or creating 

sumptuous midsummer 

bouquets bursting with 

seasonal blooms. 

As autumn draws in, the 

expert florists will guide 

guests as they create a 

stunning fall table centre; 

and as December dawns, the 

Cumbrian wreath workshops 

will be the perfect way to 

begin the festive season. The 

workshops include all materials 

and a delectable cream tea. 

armathwaite-hall.com 


Seed to 

flower at Le 

Manoir aux 

Quat’Saisons 

The kitchen gardens, grounds 

and orchards of Le Manoir 

aux Quat’Saisons are world 

renowned – so much so that 

the famed hotel and Michelinadorned 

restaurant now runs 

gardening and floristry courses. 

The full-day and half-day 

courses have been carefully 

curated and are helmed by 

Raymond Blanc OBE and his 

team. The garden and floral 

masterclasses are held at Le 

Manoir aux Quat’Saisons’ 

Hartley Botanic glasshouse, 

where guests are also treated 

to a delectable working lunch. 

Learn about botanicals for 

cocktails, or take a masterclass 

in growing your own flowers 

and creating vibrant bouquets. 

For garden lovers, expert 

courses on growing your own 

vegetables, winter pruning 

or the intricacies of micro 

herbs and edible flowers will 

no doubt prove irresistible. 

A gastronomic and exquisite 

English country getaway – 

Le Manoir’s 11 enchanting 

gardens provide guests with a 

once-in-a-lifetime experience. 

belmond.com 

IMAGE © PAUL WILKINSON / JENNY WOOLGAR 


Gravetye 

Manor garden 

tours 

Originally created by visionary 

gardener William Robinson 

in 1885, the gardens at this 

luxury hotel ensconced in the 

Sussex countryside are now 

considered one of the most 

important historic gardens in 

England. Head gardener Tom 

Coward and his team guides 

guests through the English 

countryside, showcasing the 

manor’s beautiful flower and 

kitchen gardens. Garden 

tours take place on Mondays, 

Wednesdays and Fridays from 

April until October during 

2023 and are available to 

anyone with a lunch reservation 

in the dining room or staying 

at the hotel. For an immersive 

culinary experience with a 

green-fingered twist, book a 

garden tour and private dining 

experience – the garden tour 

can be booked alongside a 

private lunch for groups of 

seven to 20 guests. 

gravetyemanor.co.uk 

Foraging at 

Glenapp Castle 

Estate 

For something a little different 

but still bound to the earth and 

natural landscape, why not 

discover the joys of foraging. 

Scotland’s beautiful, bountiful 

southwest is an open-air larder 

of delights and, Glenapp 

Castle Estate offers guests 

some incredible wild flavours. 

The hotel’s foraging expert, 

Monica ‘Mo’ Wilde, is one of 

Scotland’s leading foraging 

tutors and ethnobotanists, 

specialising in the use of plants, 

mushrooms and seaweeds in 


food, medicine and craft. She 

has been teaching about wild 

food for 30 years and regularly 

works with leading chefs, 

distilleries and bartenders. 

The foraging experience 

at Glenapp comprises a 

fascinating half-day or fullday 

adventure, where guests 

learn to identify seasonal 

edible goodies, such as wild 

mushrooms, aromatic herbs, 

seaweeds and succulent 

coastal plants. The experience 

includes a wide selection of 

foraged tipples and tasters 

and concludes with a wild-food 

picnic and foraged cocktails 

in the garden, woods or at the 

Victorian Glasshouse. 

glenappcastle.com 

Floral 

workshops 

at Ham Yard 

Hotel 

Head to the rooftop of 

London’s Ham Yard Hotel to 

discover a world of colour and 

learn from world-renowned 

florist, author and designer 

Willow Crossley. Willow will 

take guests on a tour of the 

roof gardens, identifying 

seasonal flowers and herbs 

and will then demonstrate 

how to make a beautiful 

arrangement using locally 

grown, spring flowers. The 

first workshop takes place in 

April. Willow will reveal her tips 

and tricks on how to arrange 

flowers from single stems to 

full arrangements and how to 

work with the seasons to get 

the most out of blooms all 

year-round. Keep an eye on 

Ham Yard’s diary of creative 

workshops for more dates – 

from floristry to fabled thread 

embroidery. 

firmdalehotels.com 


BLACKTON GRANGE 

AN EXCLUSIVE, SECLUDED, LUXURY HOLIDAY HOME IN THE NORTH 

PENNINES AREA OF OUTSTANDING NATURAL BEAUTY 

Durham’s newest luxury self 

catering accommodation. 

Blackton Grange is a luxury 

retreat with all of the mod cons 

such as private hot tub, cocktail 

lounge, games room, cinema 

room and so much more. 

With space for up to 17 guests, 

Blackton Grange is an elegant 

but cosy celebration house 

where you can escape and 

create your own special 

memories while celebrating 

life’s biggest milestones. 

WWW.BLACKTONGRANGE.CO.UK

Floral 

creations at 

Cromlix 

Owned by British tennis 

player, Andy Murray, Cromlix 

is a Victorian Perthshire 

mansion full of Scottish charm 

and decadent touches. While 

there is an abundance of 

on-site activities to choose 

from – including tennis, of 

course – bespoke lessons 

in flower arranging, wreath 

making or table displays can 

be booked on request from 

April 2023. During the private 

flower-arranging lessons, 

guests will wander the 

stunning grounds of Cromlix 

and handpick a selection 

of blooms, foliage and 

aromatic stems, including 

a selection from the tulip 

beds (newly planted for 2023) 

when in season. Under the 

careful guidance of Sarah 

Corsar (Head of the Kitchen 

Garden), guests will create 

beautiful bouquets and 

discover a new appreciation 

for the grounds and gardens 

of this captivating Scottish 

hideaway. Thanks to its 

beautiful location, Cromlix, 

a Pride of Britain hotel 

member, is a perfect fit 

for green-fingered guests 

looking to relax and unwind. 

Individual or group bookings 

available from April 2023. 

cromlix.com 


A 

York 

WALK AROUND 

The medieval walls of York enclose 

a city that contains Roman, Viking 

and Georgian architecture and one 

of the most beautiful cathedrals 

in Britain. With traffic exiled to a 

ring road outside the walls, this is a 

perfect city in which to stroll 

Text by Adrian Mourby | Illustrations by Sophie Minto 

the soaring, solid majesty of York Minster, a huge cathedral 

dedicated to St Peter that is the seat of the second-most 

important bishop in Britain. 

The city walls lead down to Lendal Bridge, which crosses 

the River Ouse. The conical building you pass on your left 

once controlled a huge chain that lay on the riverbed and 

that could – with the assistance of the turreted building 

on the opposite shore – be raised to prevent any invaders 

sailing into the centre of York. 

York is a remarkable city whose dukes once 

held the English throne. It has also been a 

major Roman garrison and the capital of 

Viking Britain which is why, still today, its 

streets are named ‘gates’ and its city gates 

are named ‘bars’. 

Start your day at York’s railway station, a splendid and 

highly practical curving structure in yellow brick. When it 

opened in 1877 this station had 13 platforms, making it the 

largest in the world. Dainty, painted pedestrian bridges that 

wouldn’t be out of place in a Victorian municipal park link 

all those platforms. 

Outside the terminus, take Station Road north towards 

the River Ouse. As soon as you can, climb onto York’s white 

medieval limestone walls. From here there is a wonderful 

view of the city, with its Georgian townhouses dominated by 

Once on the far side of the bridge, turn left to walk 

through Museum Gardens as far as the Greek-Revival 

style Yorkshire Museum, which was opened in 1830. The 

architect was William Wilkins, the architect of London’s 

British Museum. The site, chosen by York’s Philosophical 

Society was in the grounds of St Mary’s Abbey, destroyed 

during the Reformation. Its ruins can still be seen as you 

walk through the park. 


‘ 

Once on the far side of the bridge, turn 

left to walk through Museum Gardens 

as far as the Greek-Revival style 

Yorkshire Museum. 

’ 

Emerging at the north end of the gardens, King's Manor 

is on your left and the York Art Gallery ahead of you. 

King's Manor was once the residence of the abbots of St 

Mary's Abbey but it was taken over by the Tudors after the 

dissolution of the monasteries. The building is now part of 

the University of York. In 1603 King's Manor housed James 

VI of Scotland on his way to London to receive the English 

throne following the death of his cousin, Elizabeth I. Over 

the main entrance it sports the coat of arms of the King. 

James was the monarch who introduced the Scots unicorn 

to English heraldry, demoting the Welsh dragon. Ever since, 

the white unicorn has helped the English lion hold up the 

monarch's shield, but this shield is notably different from 

that of Elizabeth I, James' predecessor, because James also 

introduced the harp of Ireland and the lion of Scotland to its 

four quarters. 

In front of the art gallery stands a statue of the painter 

William Etty (1787–1849) who was born in York and who 

painted historical, mythological and biblical scenes. He was 

considered scandalous in the 19th century because so 


many of his paintings featured ladies who had lost their 

clothes. York's Art Gallery contains the world’s largest 

collection of Ettys. 

Crossing to Bootham Bar where the medieval wall was 

demolished so that Henry VIII’s daughter Princess Mary 

could enter in a huge procession, you climb back on to the 

medieval walls for wonderful views of the freestanding 

minster across Dean’s Park. In medieval cities like York great 

buildings would accumulate lean-to houses and workshops 

around them, like bits of coral adding to a reef. 

The Minster, like so many cathedrals and churches, was 

cleansed of such accretions in the Victorian era. It is today a 

powerful, stunning white limestone edifice, two huge towers 

at its western end and an even bigger central tower over 

the transept that rises up 235 feet without a spire, like some 

great white cliff face. This is the largest Gothic cathedral 

in northern Europe and a masterpiece in stone and stained 

glass. 

The narrow parapet of these preserved walls runs 

around three quarters of York. Walking it, you encounter 

four major and two minor fortified gates (known, from the 

Viking era as bars). The Richard III Experience, a museum 

dedicated to the last Yorkist king of England is housed 

within Monk Bar. This fortified gate – York's largest – still 

has its own working portcullis. 

From here take the narrow steps down into Goodramgate 

(gate meaning street) and head towards the centre of the 

old city. Walk past The Cat’s Whiskers ( a cafe where you 

can take tea with resident cats awaiting adoption) as far 

as King’s Square where there are often buskers and street 

entertainers – as well as lots of independent bakeries. 

Heading south out of the square, past York’s Chocolate 

Story visitor centre we come to The Shambles, one of the 

most charming medieval vistas in York. Some of its timberframed 

houses date back to the 14th century. 

The cobbled street is so narrow that some of the 

overhanging upper storeys of houses almost touch in 

the middle of the street. It’s generally believed that The 

Shambles got its name from the Anglo-Saxon word, Flesh/ 

ammels which referred to the shelves on which butchers 

used to display their meat. The butchers are long gone and 

The Shambles is now home to Harry Potter memorabilia 

shops and general necromancy. 


‘ 

Coming out into Whip-Ma-Whop-Ma- 

Gate street... turn right and walk through 

the market place and north towards 

the Roman Bath near Swinegate. 

’ 

Be careful not to mention the name of The Shop That 

Must Not Be Named, which is full of magic wands. It is no 

surprise that many believe The Shambles inspired the design 

of Diagon Alley in the Potter films. 

Coming out into Whip-Ma-Whop-Ma-Gate (surely the 

strangest and least explicable of many strange street names 

in York) turn right and walk through the marketplace and 

north towards the Roman Bath near Swinegate. This pub 

with rooms is built over a Roman caldarium (hot baths), 

which is still down there in its cellar. From here there is a 

cut through (a passageway under houses) that is called 

Nether Hornpot Lane that leads via Grape Lane and Mad 

Alice Lane into Low Petergate. Here there are some great 

places to eat or snack as you continue your way north back 

to the Minster. At the small statue of Minerva (goddess of 

wisdom), turn right down Minster Gates, which used to be 

known as Bookbinder’s Alley. Here was where books were 

leather-bound in medieval times – and later printed. Today 

its small premises are given over to bookshops and jewellers. 

This alleyway ends opposite the Minster. 

There is no better way to end a walk round York than 

by visiting the Minster. Do not miss the screen that features 

15 life-sized carved kings of England, from William the 

Conqueror to Henry VI below gilded canopies, nor the 

painted ceiling bosses above the South Transept. When the 

transept’s roof was destroyed in a fire of 1984 the Blue Peter 

TV programme invited children to design new carved bosses 

for York, relevant to the 1980s. If you look closely (or have 

brought a pair of binoculars) you’ll see up there bosses that 

commemorate the first moon landing, saving the whales 

and the raising of Henry VIII’s flagship, the Mary Rose. 

Ideally you’ll have prebooked a ticket for the tower as 

well. It’s 275 steps to the top, but at rooftop level you are 

at the highest point in York and can see everywhere you 

have just walked – and so much more of what this majestic 

city has to offer. 

Where to stay and eat 

▶ Middlethorpe Hall: York’s finest hotel, an august 

Queen Anne house near the racecourse. It was 

built by the Barlow family, Sheffield cutlers who had 

made a fortune in the 17th century and wanted to 

relocate to York. The house was built on the main 

road leading south out of York rather than in a park, 

to be sure that no-one would miss it. Today the 

hotel is famed for its Champagne Afternoon Tea. 

There is also a lovely spa with a swimming pool in a 

cottage on the estate. middlethorpe.com 

▶ Guy Fawkes Inn: This Georgian townhouse 

stands close to York Minster and claims to have 

been built on the site of the medieval inn where the 

Gunpowder plotter, Guido Fawkes was born. Inside, 

the hotel offers diners a ‘Conspirators Menu’ and a 

free two-hour walking tour of York’s historic sights. 

guyfawkesinnyork.com 

▶ Galtres Lodge: A unique 12-bedroom boutique 

hotel has been formed out of two Georgian 

townhouses in the centre of York. Its location in 

Low Petergate is ideal for both sightseeing and 

shopping. galtreslodge.uk 

▶ The Refectory: The Refectory Kitchen & Terrace 

is part of York’s old 19th-century railway hotel, now 

known as The Principal, York. Its bar – known as the 

Chapter House – and its dining room – known 

as the Refectory – take their names from York’s 

monastic origins. While you’re there check out the 

hotel’s gorgeous main staircase. therefectory.co.uk 

▶ Pearly Cow York: Pearly Cow is the first in a 

mini-chain of new British restaurants opening in 

heritage buildings. Fire and Ice are the themes of 

the menu so whether you want steak cooked in a 

Mibrasa Grill or oysters served on a plate of ice, 

book in from the end of March. pearlycow.co.uk 

▶ Pairings: Sisters Kelly and Kate opened Pairings 

Wine Bar in 2015. Their mission is to offer a 

relaxing space for drinking good wine but with 

the opportunity to order the food the two women 

suggest as an ideal pairing with each bottle. 

Hence the name. pairings.co.uk 


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Romantic 

STAYS 

Escape with a loved one to a remote retreat, whether it be a 

design-led bothy, a chic cottage or a windswept clifftop cabin. 

Time slows down, freeing you to focus on each other, while 

absorbing the beauty of nature all around you 

Text by Natalie Paris 

1 

The Great Arch at Fonthill, in Wiltshire 

Gracefully framing the entrance to the Fonthill 

Estate, The Victory Arch was built in 1755. Last 

year, its intimate rooms were refurbished in Farrow 

& Ball’s newest shades and The Great Arch was 

transformed into striking accommodation for anyone 

wanting to hang their hats inside a Grade-I-listed 

landmark. Patterned fabrics blend harmoniously with 

antique furniture over three floors, and every space 

feels stylishly snug. The bedroom has a roll-top bath 

that looks towards Fonthill’s lake, there’s a log burner 

in the sitting room and a quaint, eat-in kitchen. Not 

far from the well-to-do village of Tisbury, Fonthill 

offers lakeside walks past stone grottos and it’s only 

20 minutes to The Beckford Arms, where hearty food 

and log fires await. 

One night from £295 or from £325 on a B&B basis, 

with breakfast either at The Beckford Arms or available 

to prepare yourself, beckfordarms.com 


2 

Doxie, The Wilderness Reserve, 

Suffolk 

Doxie is a traditional Suffolk-pink 

cottage with a thatched roof, wooden 

beams and a full country kitchen. Sitting 

beside a private swimming pond with its 

own rowboat, the luxury abode is the latest 

addition to 8,000-acre The Wilderness 

Reserve, a collection of revitalised period 

buildings on the Sibton Park estate. Pashley 

bikes are available for couples who fancy a 

pedal around the rewilded countryside. Take 

a dip in the natural pond afterwards, try the 

sunken hot tub or retreat to the cottage’s 

private sauna and steam rooms. Massages 

and private spa treatments can be arranged 

on the covered pond-side terrace, where there 

is also a barbecue and an outdoor kitchen, 

making alfresco dining a breeze. 

One night from £673, wildernessreserve.com 


3 

Sitheil, Inverlonan, Oban 

You won’t be disturbed at Sitheil, a new 

eco-bothy with a pared-back aesthetic 

on the shore of Loch Nell. Guests can 

cook over fire, order in select delicacies or have a 

chef whip up an eight-course dinner in the wild. 

Expect board games, canoes and a sauna cabin 

but the idea is to rediscover simple pleasures, like 

grinding coffee and heating water. Stone circles 

and ancient dwellings are scattered about the 

glen, while the skies are a haven for hen harriers 

and white-tailed sea eagles. 

Three nights from £525, inverlonan.com 


5 

Bosavallam, Cornwall 

Set in an orchard, Bosavallam has 

impressive green credentials. The handfinished 

panels behind the bed were 

originally salvaged from a church and much of 

the furniture is reclaimed or refurbished. The onebedroom 

refuge has a low-impact design, with 

smart features like an on-site borehole from which 

water is filtered, electric car charging and a water 

source heat pump. The owners ensure the house is 

stocked with Cornish treats, wildflowers from the 

meadow and homemade honey. Popular beaches 

nearby include Daymer Bay, Watergate and Rock. 

Remember to watch out for visiting wildlife when 

using the BBQ and kitchen on the terrace. As night 

draws in, the skies above St Kew become magically 

bright, making the outdoor nickel bath ideal for 

stargazing. 

Three nights from £1,143, cornishgems.com 

4 

Treehouse, Another Place, Ullswater 

Accessed via a walkway between oak, ash 

and yew trees, Treehouse is an architectdesigned 

property in the grounds of 

contemporary country hotel Another Place. 

With floor-to-ceiling windows that look towards 

Ullswater, its ample space allows guests to breathe, 

with two bedrooms and a vast outdoor deck 

featuring a freestanding bathtub. Furnishings were 

built by local artisans, the floors are reclaimed oak 

and there is a log burner to snuggle up beside. There 

are three restaurants on-site as well as a fantastic 

indoor swimming pool facing the lake. Make a stay 

extra special by joining a guided, full-moon night 

swim in Ullswater. A cold-water swimming expert 

brings light-up tow floats and glowstick to lead a dip 

from the hotel’s private jetty. 

One night from £675, another.place 


6 

Aurora, Cornwall 

Sheltering on a cliff ledge, Aurora is 

dwarfed by miles of plunging rock and 

endless beach beyond her. Wake to the 

sounds of breaking waves in this light-filled cabin 

that offers utter seclusion above Freathy Beach, 

in Cornwall's Whitsand Bay. One-bedroomed 

Aurora is wrapped in weatherboard to protect 

her from the elements. A hot tub and patio 

furniture are set out so guests can relax while 

watching the sea at play. The indoors feels fresh, 

with whitewashed walls and a bright kitchen but 

there is cosiness too, on sheepskins beside the log 

burner. Come prepared for a digital detox and 

note that the path down to the cabin is steep, 

ensuring real privacy. Awe-inspiring views along 

the rugged South West Coast Path are a stroll 

away and reveal hidden coves, perfect for two. 

Four nights from £1,295, uniquehomestays.com 

7 

Marley Suite, Lakes by Yoo, 

The Cotswolds 

If the sparkly expanses of water at 

Lakes by Yoo don’t make you want to 

drop everything and just sit, soaking up your 

surroundings, the pretty villages of the Cotswolds 

are close enough for a romantic wander. Lakes 

by Yoo is a purpose-built retreat that offers great 

design, top-quality facilities and activities on tap, 

from pizza nights to nature walks, water sports 

and ziplining. Accommodation in The Marley 

Suites proves that intimacy doesn’t have to mean 

sacrificing space. The suites sleep two but have 

super-king beds, open-plan kitchens, sophisticated 

living areas and generous waterside decking. The 

bathrooms are sleek and luxurious, with modern 

freestanding tubs. The retreat’s spa – for a swim, 

sauna, steam or even a yoga session in a yurt – is 

just a short walk away. 

One night from £500, thelakesbyyoo.com 


8 

Leopard Creek, Port 

Lympne, Kent 

In the wild, leopards are 

notoriously hard to spot, 

making the wigwams at Port Lympne’s 

Leopard Creek a particularly thrilling 

place to stay. The design of the 

reserve’s newest accommodation is 

remarkable enough. Wake to shafts 

of sunlight streaming through the 

top of a cone of raw timber and farreaching 

countryside views through 

panoramic windows. Underfloor 

heating keeps everything toasty and 

breakfast is provided. The private 

viewing terrace is the place to sit and 

spot big cats over a morning coffee, 

though a complimentary golf buggy is 

also provided, letting couples explore 

the reserve. A 24-hour concierge is on 

hand, a safari experience is included 

and there are on-site restaurants to 

choose from, including one at the Port 

Lympne hotel. Back at the wigwam, 

who better to say goodnight to (your 

partner aside), than a pair of critically 

endangered Amur leopards? 

One night from £499, 

aspinallfoundation.org 


10 

The View, Dylan Coastal Resort, 

Laugharne 

With a hot tub overlooking the 

sweeping sands of the Taf estuary, 

The View has an enviable position and all the 

ingredients needed for a quietly romantic evening 

under the stars. The roomy lodge, one of many 

properties at the resort, has more to offer besides. 

A smart, open-plan living area shares the same 

outlook through glass doors onto the terrace, and 

the bedroom also has fine views. 

The lodge is well-equipped with modern 

amenities, it also has a dining table, a kitchen and 

everything required for a self-catered break. The 

Dylan Thomas Boathouse and Laugharne Castle 

are close by, plus there are bucolic walks on the 

doorstep. Time it right and you could visit during 

The Laugharne Weekend (24–26 March), a comedy 

festival that takes place down the road. 

One night from £525, luxurylodges.com 

9 

Kai, Eden Valley, Cumbria 

Kai is a red-brick hideaway set on a 1,500- 

acre estate deep in Cumbria’s Eden Valley. 

Just under four miles from Penrith, it is 

easily accessible but secluded and couples will feel 

instantly relaxed as they admire the surrounding 

Lakeland pastures dotted with sheep. The cottage 

has original stone walls, a dining room with a log fire 

and a lounge with expansive windows. The bedroom 

is a calm space, with some wood panelling and a 

king-size bed dressed in fine linens. Out by the patio 

area, guests can soak in a wooden hot tub while 

gazing at the distant fells. The firepit, meanwhile, is 

somewhere to sit and plot the next day’s adventures 

in the Lake District National Park. 

Four nights from £641, boutique-retreats.co.uk 


BRITISH TRAVEL JOURNAL CROSSWORD 14 

 

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AN ETTINGER CAPRA PASSPORT COVER & LUGGAGE TAG 

WORTH £165 (AVAILABLE FROM ETTINGER.CO.UK) WILL BE SENT 

TO THE FIRST CORRECT ENTRANT RECEIVED THIS ISSUE. 

ACROSS 

1 The --- Arms, Braemar 5-star 

hotel (4) 

4 More than just into (4,5) 

10 Unhealthy drainage channel (4,5) 

11 Leopard ---, Port Lympne 

accommodation (5) 

12 Shade of blue (4) 

13 Dealer lures Pip off the beaten 

track (8) 

16 Clark Gable's lost love (6,7) 

18 Inconsistency (13) 

21 Where 22 Across and 20 Down 

might have been found in Roman 

times (8) 

22 Whip-ma-whop-ma ---, York (4) 

25 Spur wheel (5) 

26 Legendary Tunbridge Wells 

letter-writer (9) 

27 Letterform without crossstrokes 

(4,5) 

28 Jack's "Chinatown" costar (4) 

DOWN 

2 Freeze on the surface (3,4) 

3 "Born Free" lioness (4) 

4 Oddly-named Somerset estate (4) 

5 Grand Inquisitor of the 15th 

century (10) 

6 Approval (10) 

7 Confused demon in total agreement 

(3,4) 

8 They accept offers (6) 

9 After-dinner orders (7) 

14 Golf centre and top-line Auchterarder 

hotel (10) 

15 Versatile sort (3-7) 

17 Proposes (7) 

18 Snowdon Mountain Railway 

station (7) 

19 In a fumbling, bumbling way (7) 

20 Originally, a Northern chocolate 

maker (6) 

23 Aces "over there" (1,1,1,1) 

24 Saltburn ---, for wave-riders (4) 

Answers will be printed in the Summer 2023 Issue 

Great Walks on the England Coast Path: This guide will encourage 

you to explore both well-loved and less well-known parts of the English 

shoreline, £20, cicerone.co.uk | Just Add Water: Over 100 ways to 

recharge and relax on the UK's rivers, lakes and canals, £18.99, 

bloomsbury.com | The Hebridean Baker: Baking sensation, Coinneach 

MacLeod, known as @hebrideanbaker to his 251,000 TikTok followers 

and 107,000 Instagram followers is serving up a fresh selection of exciting 

new recipes and charming stories, £26, blackandwhitepublishing.com 

ANSWERS TO CROSSWORD 13 | AUTUMN/WINTER 2022 

ACROSS: 9 Pendine 10 Abigail 11 Leeds 12 Frowned on 13 Net losses 15 

Wales 17 Grenade launcher 20 Tarns 22 Theorists 24 Yellow Sea 26 E flat 

27 Ragweed 28 Retinas 

DOWN: 1 Up all night 2 Insect 3 Diaspora 4 Deaf 5 Famous name 6 Winnow 

7 Randolph 8 Glen 14 Swept aside 16 Stress test 18 Earplugs 19 Narberth 21 

Skomer 23 Silent 24 York 25 Acre 


there’s no place like Cornish Gems 

Eco-Conscious Homes | Hidden Gems | Coastal Retreats | Dog Friendly | Celebrations 

Cornwall is our home and we’d love to share it with you, responsibly 

and generously. Stay with us and experience the rare quality of over 

180 extraordinary Gems, sleeping from 2 to 20 guests. 

cornishgems.com | 01872 241241

GOODWOOD 

one 

of 

the 

best 

hotels 

in 

the 

country 

DUNCAN CRAIG, TRAVEL EDITOR, THE TIMES AND SUNDAY TIMES 

GOODWOOD.COM

British Travel Journal | Spring 2023

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